tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4928633829170507632024-03-19T04:50:43.776-07:00Karin & Peter's Excellent AdventuresMemories, highlights and other fun stuff from holidays and outings.Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.comBlogger118125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-38140011027196373922016-09-10T15:51:00.000-07:002017-06-04T14:50:43.448-07:00Introduction to Newfoundland <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The first glimpse of the islands of Newfoundland lives up to all the hype of the most easterly province of Canada. From the air, the mountains and rough, rugged coastline appear hauntingly out of the mist as we start the descent to St. John's. Small towns cluster at the water;s edge and cling to rocky outcrops, lighthouses perch precariously, harbours nestle into protected inlets. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHu0Cs5jqsHxrPI8bmuof48Y_OSp7GFXItZO1iBWqQqA1Uo0s83CavbY4Vyk6ny5FiUwd28nU5CRB0eCiBP8dfg5-cer91R7RKaZBnRu-ebIAaojVCv0_iEnCrnXYd-cm68JK18_VOac/s1600/20160911_110919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHu0Cs5jqsHxrPI8bmuof48Y_OSp7GFXItZO1iBWqQqA1Uo0s83CavbY4Vyk6ny5FiUwd28nU5CRB0eCiBP8dfg5-cer91R7RKaZBnRu-ebIAaojVCv0_iEnCrnXYd-cm68JK18_VOac/s400/20160911_110919.jpg" width="400" /></a>We have decided it's time to discover a bit more of our own country and the Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism Board does a stellar job of enticing visitors with their colourful ads. I am expecting to see cute kids in rainbow striped socks, skipping along rocky paths, past brightly painted houses. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZPX7_5au0BBukhZt6OeVtVQFCd47_TAfzAQ_G3CAOcShugLsCuXJyvM68hJpdstAAI6b0EiVqPtQBSOBGQcIs2nQQXnN5OyWLLQIT6pdDLKRJ0WbIbu7raSHDp_a-f8FqWZGiW-eGQY/s1600/IMG_0942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZPX7_5au0BBukhZt6OeVtVQFCd47_TAfzAQ_G3CAOcShugLsCuXJyvM68hJpdstAAI6b0EiVqPtQBSOBGQcIs2nQQXnN5OyWLLQIT6pdDLKRJ0WbIbu7raSHDp_a-f8FqWZGiW-eGQY/s400/IMG_0942.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Fiercely independent, only reluctantly joining Confederation, Newfoundlanders are renowned for their warmth, good humour, friendliness and resilience. We are eager to discover for ourselves. I am embarrassed to say that before researching for this holiday, I was pretty ignorant about the places to go and things to do in Newfoundland, But after reading the tourism booklet with a map thoughtfully mailed by the tourism department, we have planned a route that will give us a broad over view of the lie of the land and some of its exceptional landscape.<br />
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The itinerary is quite ambitions with lots of driving </div>
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but with plenty of time allotted to exploring and hiking.</div>
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Our route will take us from the capital, St John's</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">through Trinity </span><span style="text-align: left;">to the magnificent Skerwink Trail</span></div>
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to Bonavista</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Then by ferry to Fogo Island.</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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A stop in Twillingate</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">before heading west to Gros Morne National Park</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> A night in Grand Falls Windsor to visit the close by town of Botwood </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">and our last night in Spanish Bay, </span></div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0St. John's, NL, Canada47.5615096 -52.71257679999996547.2181116 -53.358023799999962 47.9049076 -52.067129799999968tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-10179306804830431962015-09-20T14:35:00.000-07:002016-10-23T15:46:40.903-07:00Full circle - back to Zagreb<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It is only an hour from Split to Zagreb by air, but we have chosen the four hour train ride just for something different and to see a bit more of the countryside. It is an easy walk from our accommodation to the station and we are there in good time as there is only one train a day.<br />
It is not very full and we have a large compartment to ourselves. There is no restaurant or bar car on the train but we had anticipated that and we settle in with some beverages and snacks for a leisurely trip.<br />
Along the route we see a very different Croatia than the one where the tourists flock. Here there are visible reminders that not so long ago, there was conflict and war. Buildings and at times it seems entire small villages are left in ruins and with no sign of people.<br />
Our train ride ends two hours earlier than anticipated. Apparently there are repairs being done on the line ahead and we are transferred to a bus, which speeds along and gets us to Zagreb much quicker than anticipated. So lesson learned. Next time we do what the locals do and take the bus.<br />
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Too bad we are only here for one night. I like the apartment and the balcony with a view of leafy treetops.<br />
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Just time to enjoy the relaxed coffee culture and one more look at the lovely squares of Zagreb.</div>
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And so ends another great holiday. We enjoyed the variety of this trip; some urban culture, some history, a good dose of gorgeous scenery, fantastic days at sea, great food and conversation and above all wonderful people, Good bye Croatia - until next time! </div>
Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-6893627069884453402015-09-19T13:24:00.001-07:002016-10-29T10:53:57.394-07:00Split: so much to see, so little time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It seems that our group is reluctant to say goodbye so we have arranged to meet in the centre of the old town for lunch. Diane and Ken are staying at the same apartment/hotel as we are on a quiet residential street, easy walking distance of where all the action is. Although we are very early for check in, we get a friendly welcome and our rooms aren't ready, we can leave our luggage. Before we can set off to explore, our hosts insist on treating us to coffee and chocolate cake which is served in the garden. A nice start to our stay at the Villa Vice.<br />
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We only have one day here, so we hurry to the Diocletian Palace which is the biggest draw for visitors. The old walls are well hidden behind parking lots and commercial storefronts. but once we find an entrance, we are into a world where old meets new; ruins and restaurants, chic stores and squares; homes and alleys; tourists galore and tacky tourist attractions. But the setting is magic. This is another location for the filming of Game of Thrones. Mysterious caverns and tunnels, crumbling facades, ancient buildings, temples, churches - everything jumbled together and crowded with visitors.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">The Diocletian Palace, built in the 4 AD by the Roman Emperor Diocletian as his planned retirement residence, is a vast complex which for a long time has been home to local people. Blended in with the remnants of antiquity are residences, cafes, bars and shops.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">When we get to the appointed place, our friends are already waiting, looking relaxed and at home in the main square.</span></div>
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Lunch at a nearby restaurant is as expected, delicious. </div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">After another round of group hugs, we go our separate ways.</span></div>
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Peter and I head to the cellars. This a vast subterranean area built in Roman times to create a level platform for the palace structure. At times used for storage, residences and waste pits in the Middle Ages, abandoned for centuries, cleaning began in the 19th Century and now the cavernous halls with their sturdy pillars are home to exhibitions, festival and sundry events. Today it is quiet and we are free to wander and absorb the slightly gloomy ambience.</div>
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Outside the walls of the Palace there is a lot more to see.<br />
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And finally we climb the bell tower of the cathedral and get an awesome panoramic view, over the rooftops to the city and the harbour below.<br />
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com021000, Split, Croatia43.5081323 16.44019349999996443.4160113 16.278831999999962 43.6002533 16.601554999999966tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-81419540430914846842015-09-18T23:00:00.001-07:002016-10-02T13:22:00.196-07:00Land ahoy. Split - our final port. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We motor towards the City of Split.</div>
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The city sprawls along the shoreline and up the hill. The marina is big and densely packed and the dock master is busy directing traffic and finding berths for all the boats arriving for the night. When we dock, our neighbours are at pretty close quarters.<br />
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The harbour is bustling with craft of all sizes and out on the bay cruise ships, ferries, sea planes and pleasure boats somehow manage to avoid colliding with one another.<br />
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This is our last night together as a group. We stay close to the marina for dinner to enjoy a last evening of camaraderie, good conversation and a shared bottle of wine or two.</div>
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Night settles over the bay. Split lights up across the harbour. </div>
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Tomorrow we start another adventure - exploring the town and its magnificent Diocletian Palace.</div>
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In the morning we pack up our luggage and try to help Damir as much as possible to clean up. He has no break at all as he is expecting his new group of G-Adventurers in the afternoon and he has a lot of work to do to organize for the group. </div>
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What a great group to spend eight days with!</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com021000, Split, Croatia43.5081323 16.44019349999996443.4160113 16.278831999999962 43.6002533 16.601554999999966tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-75975572408850704082015-09-17T21:00:00.000-07:002016-08-14T09:10:00.929-07:00Dinner date on Island Šolta<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: #eeeecc; color: #333333; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.61px; line-height: 18.915px;">Moored for the night at the village Stomorska on </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.61px; line-height: 18.915px;">Island Šolta, Damir has arranged for us to have </span></span><span style="background-color: #eeeecc; color: #333333; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.61px; line-height: 18.915px;">dinner at the Kastelanac family house.</span><br />
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We listen intently as our host describes the family olive oil and wine enterprise<br />
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<span style="background-color: #eeeecc; color: #333333; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.61px; line-height: 18.915px;">And then he prepares a most delectable dinner of a variety of fresh fish, cooked over coals on the outdoor grill.</span><br />
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A memorable evening with great food and great company. </div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Šolta, Croatia43.3869934 16.2875209999999743.2946509 16.126159499999968 43.4793359 16.448882499999971tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-71663125673689336432015-09-17T17:39:00.001-07:002016-08-14T09:08:39.847-07:00Hvar - Island destination of the rich and famous<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">We only plan on a short stop in Hvar Town. The harbour is busy; no room to dock, so we drop anchor and Damir takes us ashore in the zodiak dingy in two shifts. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">There is a castle overlooking the town which would provide a magnificent view, but it would be a fast uphill dash to be back in time for our agreed departure time. Instead we take a leisurely stroll and spend a little money in the stalls that line the main square. </span></div>
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Too soon it's time to leave. We haven't really given Hvar its due; but I'm not sorry that we are moving to a more protected mooring spot for the night. </div>
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It's a tight fit in the dingy as we head back on board.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-14407971692257605332015-09-16T23:00:00.000-07:002016-08-14T09:12:15.326-07:00Overnight at anchor - Bay of Gradina<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It is beautiful and peaceful when we anchor in the bay of Gradina near Vela Luka. </div>
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We all have a hand at putting together a spread of finger food for dinner. I think this is Damir's favourite meal of the trip.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-51515554927178140652015-09-16T15:35:00.000-07:002016-08-13T15:54:24.856-07:00Sailing, sailing...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Visiting islands and towns is part of the fun of this adventure, but the highlight is days at sea, under sail, watching the world go by.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTtjkJQEHBoCcOQ0ZBLXAGfyWgmP2HO5RUqesSjyEyW21xlNvvjZeMBrYYgrkUZiS7vUBGqAx4ltxrKofwTWsjr1V9FDvzyIyDpqDoys3ijKUUMRkCBdxSJpxNq0sWykkFG8t6ZMcL6k/s1600/DSC02247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTtjkJQEHBoCcOQ0ZBLXAGfyWgmP2HO5RUqesSjyEyW21xlNvvjZeMBrYYgrkUZiS7vUBGqAx4ltxrKofwTWsjr1V9FDvzyIyDpqDoys3ijKUUMRkCBdxSJpxNq0sWykkFG8t6ZMcL6k/s200/DSC02247.JPG" width="150" /></a>Real world issues are forgotten. Relaxing is the name of the game.<br />
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-60343541039514767502015-09-16T14:19:00.000-07:002016-08-14T09:38:46.525-07:00Next port of call - Korčula<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">The island of Korčula is high on my must-see list, so I am pleased that this is a stopover in the middle of our trip. Damir is expecting to rendezvous with two other G-Adventure boats sailing in the reverse direction, starting in Split. The water in the bay is quite choppy when we head to the busy ACI Marina. The dock master finds a berth for us in the protected area behind the breakwall; a tight fit, but Damir deftly slides Arta into place. </span></div>
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First stop on shore is for gelato and then we set our to explore this enchanting town.</div>
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The streets of Korčula are laid out in a clever pattern to take advantage of the winds for both cooling and protection.<br />
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Korčula proudly claims to be the birth place of Marco Pollo. </div>
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This is the night we get the notion that we want to liberate a palm tree from the aft deck of one of the fancy yachts tied up across from us. A minor prank in the end. We leave our prize in Damir's "office" for him to find the next morning. He disappoints us by pretending that a large palm frond hanging above his desk is nothing unusual!</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-20043055915578164622015-09-15T15:35:00.000-07:002016-08-14T07:21:38.201-07:00Shore excursions - 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">A pleasant day of sailing brings us to the Island Mljet which features the Mljet National Park.</span></div>
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Damir suggests that an excellent outing is to cycle to the lovely lakes in the park. But, he warns us, this can be a challenge as there is a long, fairly steep hill up to the lakes. </div>
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I give the line of rental bikes on shore a glance and immediately choose to give the outing a miss. I know my limited cycling skills won't get me to the top of any hill, let alone a long one. But group pressure prevails and I find myself huffing and puffing my way up the long incline,struggling with the unfamiliar gears; grumbling and wobbling on my rental bike. The others are very patient with me but it's not long before I am walking and pushing my bike while the others seem to glide uphill and out of sight.<br />
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Peter loyally sticks with me even though I am being, frankly, quite sucky. For most people, cycling seems as natural as walking, but since I have limited experience and no stamina, it is tough going. I almost give up, but when we level out I pedal on gamely until we find the rest of our group, splashing in the cool water of one of the lakes, Swimming in fresh water, after the salty sea, is worth the effort. But I am happy to hand back my rental bike after the long coast downhill. The rental is right beside the restaurant, opposite our mooring spot, where Damir has ordered a special dinner of veal, lamb and vegetables cooked in the traditional way for hours over a pit of hot coals.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-85276605860758985492015-09-14T18:38:00.000-07:002016-04-07T12:06:15.271-07:00Sailing Croatia - shore excursions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Each day Damir has some new interesting port of call for us, where we can explore or just relax and sample the local cuisine.<br />
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Day 2: A short stop over at Ston, followed by an afternoon wine tour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTVzVq567MPrYzjS9RgVPi7Ls8i55bVCje_VoLyxvH5qxTw6mEUv7a9UQMpyasekwhloWWCoSTclVBKd6Bz3L7tnon5qlp73czxqpM7n5q9YMCIjRiw8KpzUDD0NeMivW0W18EnCsxcc/s1600/IMG_0063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTVzVq567MPrYzjS9RgVPi7Ls8i55bVCje_VoLyxvH5qxTw6mEUv7a9UQMpyasekwhloWWCoSTclVBKd6Bz3L7tnon5qlp73czxqpM7n5q9YMCIjRiw8KpzUDD0NeMivW0W18EnCsxcc/s320/IMG_0063.JPG" width="213" /></a>The Walls of Ston are impressive as we tie up at the public dock of the Village of Ston. We disembark to stretch our legs and visit the compact town with its immense encircling walls. They seem disproportionate to the size of the town, but they were built and heavily fortified in the 14th Century to protect the valuable salt pans; which still operate today.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dgs9t3yFjfl0Ze4TuB_WsTWTg5YdVS41_AxfvYq4CjZU6ZV_9HDhSnRK5B1hFAvgnXgIfszcVEDyEo1IxnN-K6UJznL0GUTePumq2E_HZXEeDCjt30d03DfTqR9G36GbCKVvS9D1YVg/s1600/IMG_0085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dgs9t3yFjfl0Ze4TuB_WsTWTg5YdVS41_AxfvYq4CjZU6ZV_9HDhSnRK5B1hFAvgnXgIfszcVEDyEo1IxnN-K6UJznL0GUTePumq2E_HZXEeDCjt30d03DfTqR9G36GbCKVvS9D1YVg/s320/IMG_0085.JPG" width="213" /></a>The original construction and recent painstaking, authentic restoration of more than 5 kilometres of wall, are amazing feats - centuries apart. It would be worth a longer visit to spend a day walking the walls and exploring the area.<br />
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Only Diane and Ken take the short loop along the wall, while the rest of us wander through the quiet town resplendent with purple bougainvillea and intriguing little alleys. <br />
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Our gracious skipper Damir, is waiting aboard Arta for us, with a delicious lunch that he prepared in our absence. </div>
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After lunch, Damir has arranged for a a local guide to take us on a road trip to visit three different wineries. At the first stop, it seems the winery operators are new to the wine tasting business. Several bottles of wine are placed in front of us, with an invitation to sample them, but nothing much in the way of explanation or description of the wines. English is not well spoken here, so that's a bit of a problem. And right afterwards, the guide announces that he has sent for a replacement van, as the first van has some issues that make him nervous.We have a fairly long route to go and he doesn't want to risk being stranded on the tricky, hilly, coastal roads. In a surprisingly short time, the replacement van arrives and we resume our journey.<br />
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The next two wineries are a much better versed in tasting etiquette. Beautiful cellars and excellent service and descriptions, make the tasting a delight. Much sampling takes place and the purchase of several bottles of wine for the communal pantry, is obviously a must. </div>
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As a result, our silly side starts to emerge.</div>
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Somehow, on these rocky hillsides, vines flourish. </div>
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It is getting dark by the time our tour has completed and our driver has to negotiate the narrow windy roads in dismal conditions. Damir has told him where the boat will be moored, but when we stop, there is no sign of Arta. We trek along a path beside Kobas Bay and there we find our floating home, perfectly placed, at a prime spot in front of the Restaurant Gastro Mare <a href="http://www.gastromare.net/en/home.html" target="_blank">http://www.gastromare.net/en/home.html</a> We have a wonderful four course dinner, with different wines with each course. They include breakfast in the price, so we are well set up. There is wifi as well as showers and toilets for those moored at the restaurant. Also a tiny beach, where much to the consternation of some of our group, I have a refreshing early morning swim. </div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-51406195736190543592015-09-13T12:45:00.000-07:002016-10-29T13:02:39.030-07:00Sailing Croatia - the days blur<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sailing itinerary:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 1 - Embark at ACI Marina, Dubrovnik. Island <span style="background-color: #eeeecc; color: #333333; line-height: 20.8px;">Šipan</span>; Port of <span style="background-color: #eeeecc; color: #333333; line-height: 20.8px;">Šipan</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 2 - Town of Ston and the small bay of Kobas - after the wine tour</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 3 - Island Miljet, bay of Polace and the Miljet National Park where we cycle to the lakes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 4 - Island and town of Korcula </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 5 - Korcula and the bay of Gradina</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 6 - Island Hvar; town of Hvar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 7 - Island Solta; village Stomorska - dinner at Kastelanac family house.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Day 8 - Split ACI Marina</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_CF3WSzmo2D9Roq4X4bzIF-SH0wkSI-Wstv-ZGqCSyQfzPntwdhYi7rMxWoyqnWt0wnjIRTHIV9pyiEyOUtOOCOyrT3f2GndA0GstCHpuz23BrhA2naEIs87_MWr226TJ0ozwtsHD9U/s1600/20150916_140959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW_CF3WSzmo2D9Roq4X4bzIF-SH0wkSI-Wstv-ZGqCSyQfzPntwdhYi7rMxWoyqnWt0wnjIRTHIV9pyiEyOUtOOCOyrT3f2GndA0GstCHpuz23BrhA2naEIs87_MWr226TJ0ozwtsHD9U/s320/20150916_140959.jpg" width="192" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">The next days are idyllic and oh so relaxing. We lose all sense of "real world" time and stress </span>and allow ourselves just to be in the moment, <span style="font-family: inherit;">as we travel from one island to the next; happily content with each others company and the glorious surroundings. The Arta becomes our home on the Adriatic Sea as we sail along the Dalmatian coast, past peninsulas and bays, pretty wooded islands with welcoming villages and docks. Boats of all sizes, shapes and models keep us company. Fantastic food, plentiful beverages and great conversation keeps us nourished.</span></div>
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Owned by some very rich dude. Note the helicopter on the top deck.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyRRs7jyzV9fBXpLH-yg2ekR1t9SOJ21w0nmmbCxNitHuaKSTTbAwtTtFiOEHFIMh-pZFAz7AW1Y4WvA3lg29zh7q_E6bOPJy0q9pe6fr_r3NCbJSP_CG7c-gLn-WHyk4CDuLKW_a2P0/s1600/DSC02112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyRRs7jyzV9fBXpLH-yg2ekR1t9SOJ21w0nmmbCxNitHuaKSTTbAwtTtFiOEHFIMh-pZFAz7AW1Y4WvA3lg29zh7q_E6bOPJy0q9pe6fr_r3NCbJSP_CG7c-gLn-WHyk4CDuLKW_a2P0/s320/DSC02112.JPG" width="240" /></a>Mostly we are running with a moderate tail wind, but at times it is lighter and we have to motor. When the sails are up and the motor turned off, it feels majestic and peaceful;smooth sailing, just the sound of waves and the taut snap of canvas.<br />
We take turns at the helm, but after a while, Peter and Graham, under Damir's watchful eye, become our go-to helmsmen.They also do the bulk of the work when it comes time to help Damir with docking. The rest of us stay out of the way, taking care not to spill our wine or beer!<br />
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Our motley crew.</div>
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Damir is an excellent skipper and he shares his sailing knowledge with us so that we keep the boat in good trim. We learn to watch for gusts of wind by "reading" the waves and to come about smoothly. On the first day, we have a serious discussion about safety and what to do if someone falls overboard. Hmmm. I'm not sure how much help I'll be in that kind of emergency, but fortunately I think that at the pace we're going, our biggest danger is falling off the narrow gangplank when the boat is bobbing in port and we've had maybe one glass of wine too many.</div>
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At least I remember to hold onto something when I am walking on the boat, particularly when holding a camera or drink.<br />
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-9021760870194610042015-09-12T14:31:00.000-07:002016-03-25T12:43:09.527-07:00Sailing Croatia - Day One - leaving Dubrovnik<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The ACI Marina where we have to meet our G Adventures skipper and crew mates is quite a way out of the city so rather than risk being late or lost, we leave the sheltering walls after a leisurely breakfast and some interesting people watching. Leaving through the nearby <span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ploče Gate </span></span>we find a convenient taxi rank. </div>
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While we are waiting for the others to arrive we go through some minor anxiety about the group we will be sailing with. After all we are going to be in very close quarters for eight days.Will we all get along? Will there be one of "those" people, you know the kind that you occasionally meet who spoil it for everyone else with endless complaining or other annoying habits? Or will we be considered "those" people that the others will be happy to abandon on a lonely island? But we needn't have worried. By the time our skipper Damir arrives to welcome us, the group has assembled and we are already exchanging stories and getting to know each other.</div>
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Before going to meet our boat, "Arta", Damir is all business as he gives us our first briefing and then we set off to the marina store to buy supplies for our first few meals aboard. The way it works is that we pool our money and shop together, making sure that everyone has a say in the type of food we choose. This is one of the times when team work and collaboration are essential and as a group it is obvious from the start that this is not going to be difficult. We are an amenable bunch. We push shopping carts full of supplies along the dock to Arta and load food into the tiny but efficient galley. Next we are assigned our cabins and given the all important bathroom protocol lecture. Peter and I have been assigned one of the two double bed rear cabins and taking turns, we each find a way to stow our stuff in the compact space.<br />
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There is nothing to hang around for at the marina, so Damir takes the helm and we head out to sea, under the Franjo Tudjman Bridge, for our first night aboard on the nearby island of <span style="line-height: 20.8px;">Šipan</span>.<br />
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Before we set out on this trip one of my daughters was curious as to why I would sign up for a sailing trip, reminding me that I get sea sick. She had a point there, so I have come armed with lots of ginger and acupressure wrist bands. But despite some choppy water, I feel fine on this first short leg of the journey. It is only when we dock at <span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 1.3;">Šipan </span> and I am on dry land again, that I start to feel queasy. Uh oh. Have I made a big mistake?<br />
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We are tied up right beside a restaurant where we are served platters of grilled fish. It is delicious but I take it easy, just nibbling my dinner. Later we clamber into our cosy bed and despite a slight swell, which makes a load slapping noise at the stern, I sleep surprisingly well and when I get up in the morning, my stomach seems to have found its equilibrium.</div>
Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-128981506637983652015-09-11T15:26:00.000-07:002016-02-14T14:30:44.455-08:00Destination Dubrovnik<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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According to our guidebook, there are two roads from Mostar to Dubrovnik. We choose the slightly longer, but less travelled scenic route. Peter uses a couple of way points to put into the GPS to make sure we start off in the right direction. And we set off through rugged mountainous terrain.The Skoda gets put through its paces along the winding roads. There is very little traffic and we are making good time.<br />
We have to return the car at noon by rendezvousing with the rental agent in the parking lot of the Hilton Hotel, so we want to be sure to make our destination on time. Car rental in Croatia is a bit complicated. There is a premium for one way rentals. You also have to make sure to have the right paperwork to enter Bosnia & Herzegovina.<br />
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After a while the road narrows down to little more than a rough track, one car width only. This seems wrong. We turn back to the last crossroad and ask some people sitting outside a lonely cafe for directions. But they are tourists too and their guide has wandered off to have a smoke, so we decide to trust the GPS and continue on our way. It is very bleak landscape, with only an occasional dirt road heading off to a distant farmhouse.<br />
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Finally we arrive at the border crossing but it is deserted except for an empty construction van. No one to stamp our passports; so cautiously we travel on, expecting to be stopped at any moment but we are not challenged. This seems like a good route if you want to smuggle something across the border. More likely, it's a road used only by farmers and the military.<br />
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The back road connects with the main road, and the spectacular city of Dubrovnik reveals itself, spreading from the old walled city up the mountainside, Circumnavigating the walls, with a fort looming over us, we arrive at the parking lot at the appointed time; also at the same time as busloads of people from cruise ships.<br />
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Our apartment is in the old city at the opposite side from the Pile Gate where we have dropped off the car; so we have no choice but to drag our luggage through the milling masses, into a maze of cobbled streets.<br />
I have managed to pick up a map at the Tourist Information office outside the gate, but it's tricky orientating with the map and trying to navigate these crowd filled streets that seem to wander, change names and are intersected randomly by steps and squares. Peter pulls out the GPS and that way we find our way to the residential area of the Glamour Town Apartments. With a name like that, we expect to find some kind of splendid signage, but even when we find the right street, we still have trouble finding anything to identify the apartment. A friendly neighbour offers help and when we tell her what we are looking for, she yells to a window above us. "Viktor" she calls. In a while Viktor descends and directs us up a couple of flights of stairs to a pleasant, studio apartment. At $154 a night, this is the most expensive accommodation on our trip by far. Yet it is well worth it to spend one night inside these venerable walls in a real neighbourhood.<br />
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Staying inside the old walls of Dubrovnik is a little like living in a museum, except that is bustling with life. The residents are a resilient lot. They have withstood hardships, bombings, war, deprivation and the crew filming Game of Thrones. They rebuilt their city after the siege of 1992 and have adapted to the economic reality of tourism with aplomb.<br />
With only one day here, we set out to explore with vigour. Now we embrace the confusion of streets, alleys and squares.<br />
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If you do nothing else when visiting Dubrovnik, you have to walk the walls that encircle and protect the city. It can be very hot and crowded, there are a lot of steps and in parts it is quite narrow, so we wait until later in the afternoon when the crowds supposedly will be less and then spend a couple of hours, taking time to stop and click our cameras and enjoy the view.</div>
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The jumble of red roofs also tells the tale of the recent restoration after the city was dramatically attacked during the Croatian/Serbian conflict. The fresh red roofs are those that were replaced - and there are many.<br />
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Among the sturdy walls and forts, wedged between houses, we find a basketball court with a view.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;"> Some buildings still remain in ruins.</span></div>
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We have a bird's eye view of the famous Onofrio fountain.<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Built in 1498 it supplied water to the City for 500 years.</span></h4>
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When we descend from the walls, we have a pretty good idea of the layout of the city and it's not hard to find a good spot off the main street for a libation. The biggest challenge for the end of the day is choosing a dinner spot from all of the interesting restaurants that spill their tables onto the narrow alleyways.<br />
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Dubrovnik, Croatia42.650660599999988 18.09442379999995942.60394209999999 18.01374279999996 42.697379099999985 18.175104799999957tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-75278696589563685412015-09-10T11:31:00.000-07:002016-01-19T14:16:16.110-08:00A detour to Bosnia / Herzegovina<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Not too far south of Zadar, we make a short stop in another attractive coastal town. Trogir is touted in some guidebooks as being a perfect tiny medieval town. Set on an island with only one bridge connecting to the mainland, a big fortress dominates the promenade and busy harbour filled with cruise boats and pleasure craft.We find a parking spot in the lot near the bridge. And yes, it is pretty, dripping with quaint alleys, cobbled streets, stone steps leading to impossibly small apartments, flapping laundry - which seems romantic when it's flapping beside ancient, crenellated walls. But somehow it feels like Trogir has sold its soul to tourism. It is hardly fair to judge a town on a quick walk through (particularly since we ourselves are a couple of those pesky tourists) but neither of us feel like lingering so we get back on the road - destination Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina.<br />
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Traffic is minimal on the road to Bosnia. The country is still recovering from the horror of the war 1992 -1995 and for the first time we see vivid reminders of damage. Ruined buildings still abound in Mostar. Our lovely hotel, Shangri La Mansion is an example of the resilience of the people who stayed in the country and have picked up the pieces. The building was reduced to a shell but has been lovingly restored and operates as a boutique hotel. Up a steep hill from a main road, it commands a panoramic view of the city and its encircling mountains. From the roof top terrace, the neighbouring buildings still in ruins, are a harsh reminder of the not so distant past and the strife that tore this area apart. Croats and Serbs in a turf war, which has left invisible emotional scars as well. </div>
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The lovely Stari Most, (Old Bridge) that spans the Neretva River is the main attraction in town. Built by the Ottomans in the 16th Century, its graceful high arch was destroyed during the war. With the support of UNESCO and others, it was beautifully reconstructed in 2004 using modern technology and remnants of the original structure rescued from the river bed. Today it stands as a symbol of peace and collaboration. </div>
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The question is "How many views can you photograph of the Old Bridge?" and the answer is "Many." We get our first glimpse of the bridge from our lunch stop, a restaurant that clings to one side of the high river bank. A friendly kitty sits on the railing beside our table and watches over us while we eat.</div>
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An unexpected feature of Mostar is the number of mosques and the influence of the Turkish culture. Minarets poke up between old stone buildings and booths selling all things Turkish, line the pedestrian street running on the one side of the river.<br />
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I try on a hair clip almost identical to one I bought from a small shop in Istanbul. Looking at the photo, I can't figure out why I didn't buy this one too.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Everything for a visitor is close by and along the river. </span>Stari Most is never far from view.</div>
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<span style="text-align: right;">The bridge is thronged with people. Crossing it is like being in tourist rush hour. But interspersed with the crowds there are other more poignant aspects. </span><span style="text-align: right;">A dog sleeps on the steps oblivious to the crowds stepping around him. A woman with her hand out begging, tucks into a nook of the bridge. A sign states "Refuges welcome." </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The entrance to the War Photo Exhibition
has a black and white photo that portrays a stark view of Mostar in sharp
contrast to the pretty, busy city we are in today. Beside it a reminder etched into a rock, "Don't forget '93".<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Across the bridge, we wander through some small streets, beside a small stream where the Crooked Bridge is situated. It's an unassuming bridge that is purported to be a trial run for the Old Bridge. Not everyone agrees with that. It's right beside the Black Dog Pub which, apart from having the same name as a pub in our 'hood back home, has been written up as being a fun place to while away an evening. We plan to return later.</span></div>
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It is quieter on this side of the bridge. Bombed out buildings seem to have made their peace in the park-like setting. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirapBfHrXCX7Lj6VHDcSIHlyL82xgjIZdeDsgOfOqaUcHLz6iUDAwEykzSm7EMELYTMbDP7N3MtEIoZnbNUjWs4JWZ42esZjlU-WGPRFxQvdLl7NIf-8k-0QmR4rqBBBjSDdXs0nrwJB0/s1600/IMG_9797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirapBfHrXCX7Lj6VHDcSIHlyL82xgjIZdeDsgOfOqaUcHLz6iUDAwEykzSm7EMELYTMbDP7N3MtEIoZnbNUjWs4JWZ42esZjlU-WGPRFxQvdLl7NIf-8k-0QmR4rqBBBjSDdXs0nrwJB0/s400/IMG_9797.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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When we come back down to the river, we are at the other side of the Old Bridge. This is a spot where people come to watch daredevils jump off the side of the bridge. It's a long drop! We find a good observation spot and get into conversation with a fellow from Minnesota who is lounging on a rock nearby. We stay for a while chatting about this and that, and take the opportunity of having photos taken of ourselves. A couple of bridge jumps take place and a kayaker paddles by, probably oblivious to how close he comes to being creamed by a non-suicidal jumper.</div>
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Lit up at night, the bridge is a lovely site.<br />
And our evening at the Black Dog Pub was a fun way to kick back, listen to live music and meet locals. Clearly somewhat of a motorcycle riders' hangout, we felt quite at home.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Mostar 88000, Bosnia and Herzegovina43.343774800000013 17.8077577999999943.251386300000014 17.646396299999989 43.436163300000011 17.969119299999992tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-43319620538233900662015-09-09T13:44:00.000-07:002016-01-09T12:32:48.492-08:00An evening in Zadar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">The route to Zadar is fairly straightforward and should take less than two hours by car. There are a couple of unique features to the small city of Zadar; both public art installations on the seafront. The best time to be there is at sunset, so we set out with that in mind.</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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Our accommodation is at the Apartments Villa Karma booked, as all of our places on this trip, through Booking.com. Their app is really helpful, with all our bookings, directions, contact information etc easily available on my phone. GPS directions take us straight to the parking lot, but it takes us a while to figure out where the apartment building is. And when we get there, there is no apparent entrance, just a notice on a door with a phone number. Finally, using sign language, we explain our dilemma to an elderly tenant who spots us through her ground floor window. She gets on the phone and shortly a statuesque young woman appears to usher us to our apartment. She apologies and says we have had to be upgraded, since the other guests didn't want to climb stairs. So up two flights of stairs, we are shown into a large two bedroom apartment with spacious kitchen and living area and a nice view. A bit more than we need, but a bargain for 58 euros.<br />
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We are a good 20 minutes walk along the waterfront from the spot where the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation are located and by the time we head out, the sun has already painted gorgeous orange streaks across the sky. It's a beautiful evening and the waterfront is busy with evening strollers.<br />
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I read about Zadar in the Lonely Planet. It's not on the regular tourist beat and it would be easy to miss this compact but charming town. Packed with Roman ruins, Medieval Churches and narrow pedestrian streets, it is situated in a lovely spot on the Dalmatian Coast. Zadar was once a stronghold of the mighty Venetians and was well fortified with strong encircling walls. No longer impregnable, we enter past a tiny harbour, through the impressive Land Gate with the symbol of Venice, the Lion of Saint Mark guarding the entrance.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/s_vi/qxw8FG8sKZ8/default.jpg?sqp=COC4nLQF&rs=AOn4CLA1By_cY2jNIhSvc1ThiX1qJd7s6g" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qxw8FG8sKZ8?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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The Sea Organ is a musical instrument that is played by the action of the sea. Designed by Nikola <span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 24.8889px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bašić</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">,</span></span></span> it is an intriguing series of concrete steps at the edge of the sea with pipes that create sounds with the rhythm of the waves. As the water swells and washes against the steps, the sounds from the pipes play a haunting tune. When we get there, a crowd of people has gathered; enjoying the sunset and the eerie sea organ music.</div>
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Nearby is another fascinating public art installation designed by Croatian architect <span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 24.8889px;">Bašić. The Sun Salutation or Greeting to the Sun, is a series of glass tiles set in the waterfront promenade, powered by the sun. As the sun sets, the stored solar energy creates a series of random, changing coloured light patterns. It is a popular place tonight. People sit, lie and pose on the colourful mosaic. Lots of selfies are taken. I try a bit of video but its hard to capture the effects on my point and shoot camera.</span><br />
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For the rest of the evening, we wander the narrow cobbled streets of the walled city. We stop to admire the competing displays of the ice cream stores, but after good dinner in a courtyard restaurant, even I have to say no to the tempting treat. We settle instead for a cappuccino in a quiet square where remnants of the once powerful Roman Empire litter the landscape.<br />
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Zadar, Croatia44.119371 15.23136479999993843.9370325 14.908641299999937 44.3017095 15.554088299999938tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-17324205678398279252015-09-09T13:00:00.000-07:002015-12-31T13:49:21.071-08:00Hiking the trails of Plitvice Lakes <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Today we head for the Upper Lakes. It's quite chilly and I am layered-up well. We cover a lot of territory following different paths and once again heading up the high trails. Every turn brings a new vista. It's trite to say this, but there really are no words to properly describe the majesty of Plitvice Lakes Park.<br />
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We run into the mid-morning crowd again and it feels as if we are walking the wrong way on a one-way walkway. </div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Plitvice Lakes National Park, 53231, Plitvički Ljeskovac, Croatia44.8653966 15.58201189999999824.688821599999997 -25.7265821 65.0419716 56.8906059tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-3046727214344087852015-09-08T15:58:00.000-07:002015-12-30T16:11:30.051-08:00Plitvice Lakes National Park<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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You can take a virtual tour of the park at the website. Obviously not as a good as being their in person but certainly worth a look. <a href="http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/" target="_blank">http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/</a><br />
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Plitvice Lakes National Park is only 100 kilometres south of Zagreb. We have a crammed rush hour tram-ride to the car rental office, toting our luggage with us. But the people on board are very polite and squeeze up to give us space and even help locate our stop. After we pick up our rental car, a spunky red Skoda that thinks it's a Porsche, we take a fairly direct route, travelling on the highway so that we will have time to see some of the park today. All my guide books highly recommend visiting the park early in the morning or in the later afternoon, to avoid the tour groups that arrive by the busload mid-morning. Excellent advice.<br />
After much searching online, we have booked a B & B that is within easy walking distance of one of the park gates.<br />
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The Krizmanic Family B & B which has a very high rating on Booking.com and TripAdvisor is a pretty place all decked out in cascading flower baskets. We check into our room on the second floor, drop our bags and head straight out to the park. It's a pleasant 10 minute walk to the entrance which is very busy. We buy a two day ticket and straggle our way in steady pedestrian traffic along the narrow boardwalks. The first part of the trail is jammed with people; everyone intent on getting the best views and vying for the strategic photo and selfie ops. I am beginning to think this might be an exercise in frustration - but it's not long before the crowds dissipate and the majesty of the park begins to unfold.</div>
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We join the crowd posing for photos in front of the high waterfall, but then choose the high road, literally, and now we are on our own, except for a handful of more serious hikers, above the crowds with magnificent views of turquoise lakes and rushing water.</div>
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This is a not-to-be -missed experience. Water, water everywhere - tranquil lakes, shaded ponds, rushing rivers - under the board walks, around rocks, disappearing into holes and cascading down fern covered rocks. Like everyone else, we can't stop taking photos, but we also make sure to enjoy the beauty around us with our naked eyes. </div>
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The park,the largest in Croatia, covers a vast area and is riddled with paths, rough trails, steps and boardwalks. </div>
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The signage is good but it's still worth picking up a map specially if you venture onto the high trails. The one on the back of the ticket is only a general outline.</div>
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There are upper and lower lakes and electric boats offer a short cut, as well as a "train" which can get you back to various entrance gates. </div>
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It's been a long day and when the park closes we head straight to a restaurant near the entrance gate which I had scoped online before we left home. Restaurant Lika looks rather upscale for a bunch of people, hungry and tired from hiking the park trails. They find a table for us close to the open kitchen where we can watch our meals being prepared on the grill. It's hearty food, but nicely balanced with excellent salads. A solo performer plays mellow tunes in the background. Ahh, this is pretty nice!<br />
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Luckily we have flashlights in our phones - they come in useful to find our way back through the wooded paths to our nicely appointed apartment. Time to get some rest; we want to make an early start to see the rest of the park in the morning.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-31198803793077362662015-09-07T13:39:00.000-07:002015-12-30T16:29:29.804-08:00Zagreb - Day 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Something I learned a long time ago; you had better like the clothes you're travelling in, because you don't know how long you might be wearing them. So, with our luggage still in limbo, there is no point in being upset that we don't have a change of clothes today. Our carry-on backpacks have all the essentials to get along with.<br />
Adapting quickly to the Zagreb style of people-watching coffee-culture, we have a relaxed start to the day. Breakfast in a cafe is only a very vague notion. Most locals eat something at home and then wander to a cafe for their coffee and social interaction. But home-made chocolate cake, freshly baked and still warm, fills the gap nicely along with cappuccino.<br />
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Stairs lead the way through sturdy stone walls, up the hill to Kaptol where the Cathedral dominates the landscape. This is another one of the old towns that could take days to explore.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7v00-s-5C7rqwtbcaL2xAmQAAJ2_zv7JggCjqguibKmFAlsrv8hVskcofHbyd5fwLsLu4FpN4q7yGFIC36YQQXruXuswCdkFd1cCs4iSVaEBMuVE2bcgOIcs9KiGYLbq0V4ftBplC9c/s1600/DSC01681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7v00-s-5C7rqwtbcaL2xAmQAAJ2_zv7JggCjqguibKmFAlsrv8hVskcofHbyd5fwLsLu4FpN4q7yGFIC36YQQXruXuswCdkFd1cCs4iSVaEBMuVE2bcgOIcs9KiGYLbq0V4ftBplC9c/s400/DSC01681.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dlzVESkUdZR4Wif-YTrITcyRBIbkxVH2TZB56PXQIHDtwoKYaL94ngpLuMj5NTNNF-eUyIQLuZB2LhgKJhj3j_mhZis2jmHr0f6cJz5FapQguLCqbjdWdGaP9YHR6m2_6vMXdOmoN2M/s1600/IMG_9271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dlzVESkUdZR4Wif-YTrITcyRBIbkxVH2TZB56PXQIHDtwoKYaL94ngpLuMj5NTNNF-eUyIQLuZB2LhgKJhj3j_mhZis2jmHr0f6cJz5FapQguLCqbjdWdGaP9YHR6m2_6vMXdOmoN2M/s200/IMG_9271.JPG" width="131" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRfg9bL1XK2a_0dP1llPwSy_9lhbOYhVUbwHtyIYiV7qtd9ZdMzrpMdpaGqtPO2J2oHXGzk7GUJD6gZHSxNodox0BU3sF0mF6hJOHE2T73SDZCPEoX1aC_VaNIIa5zrIjqAa7YjGgkv4/s1600/IMG_9265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRfg9bL1XK2a_0dP1llPwSy_9lhbOYhVUbwHtyIYiV7qtd9ZdMzrpMdpaGqtPO2J2oHXGzk7GUJD6gZHSxNodox0BU3sF0mF6hJOHE2T73SDZCPEoX1aC_VaNIIa5zrIjqAa7YjGgkv4/s200/IMG_9265.JPG" width="133" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">We take a wander around the ornately carved stone edifice and visit the even more ornate tomb of a much revered Cardinal which is the centre piece of the sacristy. </span></span><br />
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Sightseeing is tiring business!</div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Continuing on our way, we find a street lined with artists stalls which leads us to the Dolac market. The market is a riot of colour and is captivating with its sights and smells and interesting characters.</span> At a lower level, the meat market is tucked beneath the open air market which sells mostly fruit, vegetables and flowers. Clearly this is were the locals shop and there are plenty of customers.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolac Market</td></tr>
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For lunch we choose some sandwiches from a local vendor and take them to the closest cafe/bar where we order the tasty local beer and sit in comfort to watch the market scene. The vendors are packing up now and we are amazed at the huge loads that they carry, men and women alike. And for some, when is time to go, they simply drag their boxes of produce behind them.</div>
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We have no particular destination for the rest of the day except to wander and enjoy this friendly city and at some point we have to find the ice cream store that Doroteja has strongly recommended to us.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funicular to the Lower Town</td></tr>
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From the heights of the Old Town, there are good views of the Lower Town which is more open and contemporary with multiple tram routes crossing the town. Stately museum buildings are set in parks that form a horse shoe of green space, offering places to relax and smell the roses - or geraniums or whatever. Squares and side walk cafe/bars abound.<br />
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Our luggage is waiting for us when we get back to the apartment. Yay! And yet I wonder, what do we need with all this STUFF?</div>
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Time to say good bye to our new friend Doroteya. She has been a wonderful host. We'll stay in touch on FaceBook.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-72194367207670605202015-09-06T09:07:00.000-07:002015-12-29T15:58:44.743-08:00Zagreb: in the Heart of Croatia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Despite a delayed Air Canada departure from Toronto we manage to scurry through Copenhagen airport just in time to board our connecting Croatian Airlines flight to Zagreb. Our luggage isn't as lucky. Another couple from Toronto is in the same predicament and since they speak Croatian, we tag along with them in search of the baggage claim department.Our claims dutifully filed and optimistic that the luggage will be delivered to us, we catch the express bus into the city. It is definitely a cheap (30 kuna for the bus and 6 kuna for the tram), efficient alternative to a taxi. At the bus station, the local Tourist Information office provides us with maps and clear directions about how to navigate the tram system and find our way through the pedestrian streets to our accommodation.<br />
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It's a nice introduction to the city, walking from the main square and navigating through the popular cafe-lined Tkalcicva Street to the Apartment Akademia. Check-in is very casually done in the cafe at the entrance to the building. Our host, Doroteja is delightful, friendly and helpful, After showing us to our comfy apartment she goes out of her way, with a map, to point out places we might want to visit, She promises to keep her eyes open for our luggage, which won't arrive till the next day. Luckily we have two nights in Zagreb. We have chosen to stay mostly in apartments, which in Croatia is a great option to more formal hotels. Everything we might want to see is within easy walking distance. First it's time to join the cafe crowd and find something to eat.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Coffee culture is a way of life in Zagreb. We learn very quickly that most cafes only serve beverages. People sit under the umbrellas and canopies to enjoy the other main occupation; people watching. It's an art form here, on both sides of the activity. People dress up, parade and eventually settle on seats that face towards the street, where they become the audience for a while. We choose the History Cafe as it is one of the few places on this part of the street that serves food, and settle in to enjoy the passing parade. Then the rain comes. Heavy, pelting rain. The parade barely slows down. Umbrellas pop up and the servers rush to take cushions out of the downpour. The crowds thin, but only a bit. We have prime seats and stay dry under a large overhanging canopy, so we relax and wait. It seems that the kitchen is in another restaurant across the street. We watch as servers dash through the rain to cross the street where they pick up the orders, balancing food and umbrellas. </span></div>
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The rain has settled into a gentle drizzle, but we have umbrellas and only a short time to see whatever sites Zagreb has to offer. The pedestrian street we're on was once a river which divided two towns. We take some steep stairs and enter the Old Town through the Stone Gate. It has a well visited shrine where people have left offerings and candles. There are plenty of interesting places in the Old City, but it's already getting dark and the only museum open is the very quirky Museum of Broken Relationships. Developed around the idea of giving closure to those who have suffered trauma through broken relationships, it is a mixture of odd, very personal stories and exhibits. We find it strangely fascinating. By the time we have read our way slowly through the exhibits, Peter's back is suffering from a severe case of "Museum fatigue." St Marks Church, dating from the 14th Century is the Parish Church of the Old City. With its eye catching, much-photographed tiled roof, it takes central place in St Marks Square. The tiles depict the coat of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Heading back through the city, lively with people congregating in outdoor cafes and watching soccer and baseball on outdoor screens, t</span>he Bulldog Pub beckons. We are ushered to the restaurant downstairs in an old wine cellar where we have a delicious dinner. A good way to end our first day of our vacation. We go home to our cosy apartment, happily agreeing that Zagreb is our kind of town. </div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Zagreb, Croatia45.8150108 15.98191900000006245.6380178 15.659195500000061 45.992003800000006 16.30464250000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-52866966629901854342015-09-05T14:37:00.000-07:002015-11-15T09:06:10.706-08:00Croatia revisited<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After our motorcycle tour that took us briefly to a small part of Croatia, I lamented that we missed the two towns in Croatia that are on my bucket list - Dubrovnik and Split. So that provided the challenge to create a trip that would include them and give us some other touring options. In the end we chose to do another G Adventures tour, but this time by sailboat. Their eight day, Dubrovnik to Split itinerary seemed perfectly paired with a driving holiday starting in Zagreb.<br />
<a href="https://www.gadventures.com/trips/sailing-croatia-dubrovnik-to-split/2340/" target="_blank">https://www.gadventures.com/trips/sailing-croatia-dubrovnik-to-split/2340/</a><br />
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We designed the first part of the trip to start in Zagreb, rent a car and make our way through different terrain,, a National Park and small towns, with a short detour into Bosnia & Herzegovina before meeting our fellow G Adventurer/Sailors in Dubrovnik. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pUYpxWh96cW02bD3wlC-q6b3hXT3GFicPW1vQ9XXf1rJxyTqToc-BBTAzO7kUPJxHaA9Vh6maCWYr8gnKOPwnJEEH7bDkPwd6DKYRCIBKP7IFg-GDY8ZwqjhEsKuK0VJRBlP5PMs2Xc/s1600/20150907_125707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pUYpxWh96cW02bD3wlC-q6b3hXT3GFicPW1vQ9XXf1rJxyTqToc-BBTAzO7kUPJxHaA9Vh6maCWYr8gnKOPwnJEEH7bDkPwd6DKYRCIBKP7IFg-GDY8ZwqjhEsKuK0VJRBlP5PMs2Xc/s320/20150907_125707.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zagreb market</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45ZXD_wa-nDmean9WUTsgrrpvRwOOu5pW5fhGNfA2l8nNclMus4KoyC5TYklDKqx_05NBNtJ7IxsILhDaxVujl75wNMQgfpPZXDxAMo4-v9-lLxZPTKDvertJMVcjm_T7g7QyOoBmgnc/s1600/DSC01726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45ZXD_wa-nDmean9WUTsgrrpvRwOOu5pW5fhGNfA2l8nNclMus4KoyC5TYklDKqx_05NBNtJ7IxsILhDaxVujl75wNMQgfpPZXDxAMo4-v9-lLxZPTKDvertJMVcjm_T7g7QyOoBmgnc/s320/DSC01726.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enroute to Plitvitce Lakes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plitvitce Lakes National Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zadar, Salute to the Sun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5HWTr497pQ5ZvL27g3RL-BFn1SsePviwYoiwJjqxeRv4HEgFtHFD2ig5gZmwCcvaCxj-GW_rZbD3ZqqDi2icbuINzyrmBBvL1Rd6U8w2uKwLGlQx9kzQzi_g-UD7ur5iZrP597LbXbwM/s1600/IMG_9721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5HWTr497pQ5ZvL27g3RL-BFn1SsePviwYoiwJjqxeRv4HEgFtHFD2ig5gZmwCcvaCxj-GW_rZbD3ZqqDi2icbuINzyrmBBvL1Rd6U8w2uKwLGlQx9kzQzi_g-UD7ur5iZrP597LbXbwM/s320/IMG_9721.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trogir waterfront</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mostar, Bosnia </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dubrovnik</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Split</td></tr>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Zagreb, Croatia45.8150108 15.98191900000006245.6380178 15.659195500000061 45.992003800000006 16.30464250000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-62150007458789815112014-09-05T15:41:00.000-07:002015-12-09T11:46:20.674-08:00View from the Pillion - Last day of our ride<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We're heading back to Ljubljana today - which as the crow flies, is not that far away. But we have some passes, mountain roads and sights to see on the way. We start with an invigorating ride through the Vršič Pass, in the reverse direction from the previous day. It's not as wet today, but the cobblestones and the tight corners are still intimidating. I find myself counting the turns, which are clearly numbered and when we get to 50 we're through the pass. This type of riding is quite tiring even for the pillion.</div>
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A brief stop at a ski resort, which is busy even at this time of year with many visitors and a big contingent of Harley riders gathering for their convention. We continue en route through the Julian Alps.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit7dP4fUTG9OH3LonEq_3InThsDCQcofvbeBE1E1G5I24kkvrgK2ew7a7wVaqQiIIMPB6iR3U6CWxpO6qfDrzLMl_pl1b32Gay2nbyMsp7gJhhT5m73e85CdVFvz2xcN3YEHhSCXcRTI/s1600/20140905_115151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit7dP4fUTG9OH3LonEq_3InThsDCQcofvbeBE1E1G5I24kkvrgK2ew7a7wVaqQiIIMPB6iR3U6CWxpO6qfDrzLMl_pl1b32Gay2nbyMsp7gJhhT5m73e85CdVFvz2xcN3YEHhSCXcRTI/s1600/20140905_115151.jpg" width="120" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsRoBqLzExoj0Ko8VOvhsmNDKI9Vh63ecWoQDW6PpyRMvLaJE_6l5zO5fqMRvxf4xNfAn-3JD_m-sj-qjFXJM13AABW0PzgRV8fYGL0Bt6WqGC6RgPWEDXt05is3dvoSgw78CS86UR3k/s1600/DSC00972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsRoBqLzExoj0Ko8VOvhsmNDKI9Vh63ecWoQDW6PpyRMvLaJE_6l5zO5fqMRvxf4xNfAn-3JD_m-sj-qjFXJM13AABW0PzgRV8fYGL0Bt6WqGC6RgPWEDXt05is3dvoSgw78CS86UR3k/s1600/DSC00972.JPG" width="112" /></a>Riding beside rivers, around mountains and along lush valleys, we come to the beautiful spa town of Bled. Situated on a glacial lake which boasts Slovenia's only island, it is picture perfect and the whole setting seems staged for romantic fantasies. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOscxzdqCmc5U7BKtZ1NICrwoNibDEKXRdAjkj0t1HURSjMakJuYnRCnMwbuwkDrJ-d1EWITNDgLPI2nSGiZ8ApuTmLZBBpfO5okkAoi2o8Q8qG3bCyYG6WLgqUoXtR5ijn2lkG_rVoY/s1600/DSC00997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVOscxzdqCmc5U7BKtZ1NICrwoNibDEKXRdAjkj0t1HURSjMakJuYnRCnMwbuwkDrJ-d1EWITNDgLPI2nSGiZ8ApuTmLZBBpfO5okkAoi2o8Q8qG3bCyYG6WLgqUoXtR5ijn2lkG_rVoY/s1600/DSC00997.JPG" width="112" /></a>Now a busy centre of tourism, Bled is a very old town, appearing first in written documentation way back in 1004. The ferry man rows us in a traditional flat-bottomed wooden boat to the island past swans and dawdling row boats. Tradition has it that at weddings, the groom has to carry his wife up the 90 steps to the church. We pause for a group photo. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-_v-5PxlWI73IfG_DAR-bVSEueqbfuUizQasKJRzUaw7M74xKEJAuBms9y2UsmTbAwgzadJ7Iup4Isd9c3aEAUPtfbbxoY3Jjp2eDZcBNfXRQ0LnDOuhl0XrsSf4jOl5g00aOYNiHYM/s1600/DSC00994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-_v-5PxlWI73IfG_DAR-bVSEueqbfuUizQasKJRzUaw7M74xKEJAuBms9y2UsmTbAwgzadJ7Iup4Isd9c3aEAUPtfbbxoY3Jjp2eDZcBNfXRQ0LnDOuhl0XrsSf4jOl5g00aOYNiHYM/s1600/DSC00994.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4M7fNaOvHfoPxLjzsUaSvYTcFvJEdR6C6kiBNoFm4ox8C3SUPa5rppb4SvrWZCv7pPWG8qJ53Q4tA66yHgbUZrfpp_4J_INPdwCUORkkvnDcIGvVJzQtWnXIjsBJgiT_cC98AntFASvA/s1600/DSC01019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4M7fNaOvHfoPxLjzsUaSvYTcFvJEdR6C6kiBNoFm4ox8C3SUPa5rppb4SvrWZCv7pPWG8qJ53Q4tA66yHgbUZrfpp_4J_INPdwCUORkkvnDcIGvVJzQtWnXIjsBJgiT_cC98AntFASvA/s1600/DSC01019.JPG" width="180" /></a>The view from the top is enchanting; across the lake to Bled Castle perched perilously on the top of a sheer cliff, Entry to the castle is free if you eat at the restaurant, so it makes perfect sense to make this our lunch stop. The food is excellent with plenty of local specialties. I order the John Dory, a fish I don't think I have ever eaten and Peter has the deer. They are both delicious. It is very relaxing sitting in the sun in the courtyard of this ancient castle. We all cherish the moment and reflect on the fun, the camaraderie and the exhilaration of our adventure together. </div>
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At Bohinj Lake we stop very briefly before continuing on for our last mountain ride of the journey.<br />
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Soon after, the heavens open and we are pelted by heavy rain. So we stop beside a heavily wooded area and try to get some shelter while we quickly slip on our rain gear. By now we have become experts at doing this and it's not long before we are on our way again. But as soon as we crest the pass, the rain stops, the roads are dry and we have a nice ride to the lovely medieval village of <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Škofja
Loka.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 18.3999996185303px;">Škofja Loka</span> is one of the oldest settlements in Slovenia. It is a well preserved oasis in the middle of a bustling, modern town. Dan leads us through a maze of streets to the town square where we find a table and have our last coffee stop together as a group.<br />
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There are some nice shops in the narrow streets and June wanders off for a recce, returning with a stylish pair of sandals. It's time to say good by to Dan's daughter, Karin who will be leaving us along the last leg of the trip. We all enjoyed having her along for the ride and I think she had a good time too.<br />
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Back at the headquarters of Adriatic Moto Tours we are warmly greeted by Primož and other staff. Champagne is popped and we toast each other and give warm thanks to Dejan who has been an excellent guide; making each day a new adventure. Warm hugs to<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Primož </span>too who was so much fun, took care of our bikes and made sure our bags were delivered to the right rooms every night.</div>
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Peter and I have an early departure in the morning, so back at Hram Kmeki, we enjoy a last delicious Slovenian meal and say our good byes to the group. </div>
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What can I say? These are the words in my journal "<i>Wow, OMG, holy sh.t. What a day! Crazy?</i>" That pretty much sums up how I feel after going up the 2,100 metre high Mangart Mountain and through the Vršič pass today.<br />
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But first we stop at Kluze Fort. There has been a fort here since Roman times, but most recently this was the scene of clashes between Italians and Austrians in WW 1. It has proven to be pretty much impregnable over the centuries and now in more peaceful times, it houses a small museum. </div>
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And then there is the Predel Pass and the precipitous ride up Mangart Mountain. </div>
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The road is wet and narrow, steep and twisty with no guard rail; scary stuff. I can't look down except for quick glances and then I catch a glimpse of the very long drop with a sheer cliff to a valley a long way below. We go up, up, up. The slow turns on slick corners are another form of scary. The very top is closed due to a slide, but in my opinion we're high enough, and the view is ....of absolutely nothing, just thick shifting fog. June and I admit to each other that we are scared stiff. Kathy seems impervious and snaps photos all the way. And then Dan decides we should see if the cafe is open and this means going up a very narrow steep track. But it's closed, and I know everyone finds the ride back down even more nerve-wracking.</div>
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I love the signs at the crossroads where one way points to Austria, another to Slovenia while we are presently in Italy. Along the way we have passed many groups of Harley riders and the town of Trevisio is filled with them. There are "Welcome Harley Davidson" banners draped on stores and restaurants. It turns out there is a big Harley meet-up just across the border in Austria. We park our BMW's and brave the Harley signs to enter for an early lunch. We have earned it. I have a small personal victory when, after so many years of trying to learn the language, I am able to order my meal in Italian, even though everyone here speaks perfect English.</div>
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The ride is not over yet and heading back to Bovec we encounter new challenges on the Vršič Pass.</div>
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At a park entrance in a wooded area we dismount. A five minute walk brings us to a curious turquoise blue pond. These are locally called "toomphs". They bubble up from underground springs and are rich in amphibious life. It's a nice peaceful break from the high stress of today's ride.<br />
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Following the Soca River, we come to Bovec and we all go our separate ways for the rest of the day. Before we left home I had done some research and discovered a place that advertised horse riding on Lipizzaner's. The hotel receptionist gives us directions. Up the hill from the river, at the bottom of a wooded mountain, we find the Hotel village of Pristava Lepena.</div>
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The hotel is closed for the season but we are warmly welcomed and told to explore on our own.<span style="text-align: center;">The horses roam free, the goats are penned, safely behind a solid fence. </span></div>
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Guests who stay here can enrol in riding lessons and stay in charming cabins tucked in the woods. Another thing to add to my bucket list.<br />
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On the way back, we stop to enjoy close up views of the Soca River which has paralleled a lot of our journey in the past few days.</div>
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And since I don't get to ride a real horse on this trip, I have to be content with a nice rocking horse instead.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com05230 Bovec, Slovenia46.3376387 13.55168300000002546.249470699999996 13.389634500000026 46.4258067 13.713731500000025tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-56149011269488538202014-09-03T13:01:00.000-07:002016-03-25T12:39:36.485-07:00View from the Pillion - Corvara to Bovec<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With the Triumph sidelined for the duration, we are given the BMW GS that Dan has been riding. He and his daughter take the smaller bike. It has been raining and the roads are wet. The low clouds still look threatening so we all start the day wearing our rain gear. </div>
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Peter is following behind Dan, still getting the feel of the bike as we head out of town and up our first mountain road at a fairly sedate pace. And then suddenly, the bike skids out on a corner and we're down. I land on the road, but in an instant I assess that I am fine. I watch Peter, still with the bike, sliding towards the looming wall of the mountain. It stops short of the rock face and Peter is up on his feet. Very quickly our fellow riders are beside us, checking that we're okay. John and Ross help Peter pick the bike up. Someone keeps an eye out for oncoming traffic and waves them down. All I can think of is the positive things - no one is hurt; we avoided hurtling over the cliff-edge or slamming into the rock face; there was no oncoming traffic; because this particular bike has an engine guard, there is no serious damage and it is still in good working order. There are some scrapes on the tail box and engine guard and a few broken pieces of plastic from the front faring. Both of us have small tears in our rain gear and the leather has been completely scraped off the knuckle guard on my one glove. Well, that's why we wear safety gear.</div>
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Feeling a bit shaken, but in one piece, we get back on the horse, in a manner of speaking, and continue on route. I can sense that Peter is apprehensive and is taking it very cautiously, but after a coffee break, and with the sun out again, he soon gets his mojo back.<br />
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One of our stops today is the memorial and site of a terrible tragedy where in 1963 almost 2000 people died when a landslide at the newly built Vajont Dam caused an unprecedented tsunami which swept downstream, destroying villages and wiping out almost a third of the population of the largest village, Langarone. It is a sombre visit making us all very thoughtful and speculative about nature and man's effect on it. In this case, warnings of geological instability of Monte Toc were not given proper consideration, with tragic results. The dam, which didn't suffer any damage, has been abandoned.<br />
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At the roadside restaurant where we stop for lunch, we have a perfect spectator view of a bicycle road race. The group of cyclists whiz past us, accompanied by a big contingent of support vans, security and police vehicles.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Continuing our journey, we travel up and down passes, through tunnels and along valleys and eventually we cross back into Slovenia and follow the lovely Soca River to the Hotel Mangart in Bovec.</span></div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492863382917050763.post-31988859640131806522014-09-02T14:04:00.000-07:002016-03-25T12:40:10.533-07:00A day on my own - alone in the mountains<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Today is another "rest day" and we all decide to do own thing and go our separate ways. Peter joins <span style="text-align: center;">Primož</span> today for a vigorous day of riding.............</div>
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and I choose to have a day on my own exploring the area on foot. The Tourist office in town is super helpful and I pick up some brochures, maps and walking guides. </div>
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According to the "Easy Walks for Families" guide, the town of Colfosco/Colfosch is only 40 minutes away on a well-signed path. In this part of Italy, both Italian and German are spoken, a legacy of the time when the area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a result many of the towns have names in both languages.<br />
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Signs point temptingly to paths heading up the mountainside, but I am not quite brave enough to head up one of those on my own.<br />
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Along the way stations of the cross and the occasional large crucifix mark the way. I have only been walking about 20 minutes when I come to a fork in the road. A friendly local points to the high road as the best route to Colfosco and within minutes I have reached a church, which has a commanding presence in the small town.<br />
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The church and surrounding cemetery have a peaceful aura which invites lingering and contemplation. The graves are well tended and anyone who rests in peace here is obviously well-cared for. So I linger, exploring the little chapels before heading to the commercial centre in search of a macchiato and directions to the gondola.</div>
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There are a couple of idle ski lifts at the centre of town but only one gondola operating at this time of year for hikers and tourists. A path leads out of town to the base and not knowing quite what to expect when I get to the top, I play it safe and buy a return ticket on the gondola up Col Pradat. </div>
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To my surprise there is a very busy restaurant and plenty of customers enjoying the bright sunshine, which out of the wind, is bright and warming. Red deck chairs and sheep skin covered loungers are spread around welcoming anyone to relax and enjoy the ambience.</div>
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From this vantage point, the views are just another degree of magnificent. </div>
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After a tramping in various directions in the meadows and along tops of ski runs around the lodge, I feel it's time to indulge in some of the local specialties; apfel strudel und hot chocolate mit rum. And fortified, I decide to brave the trek back down the mountain path, following the signs that point to Corvara.<br />
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The route is well marked so no chance of getting lost even when I venture off the trail to explore an abandoned cabin and scramble over rocks to examine wildflowers in crevices.</div>
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As I get closer to the bottom, with the town well in sight, I feel reluctant to end this journey so soon. A sense of profound tranquility washes over me; up here sitting on the side of the mountain, it's like being half way to heaven.</div>
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Way down in the valley I have an eagle's view of the road which happens to be where Peter is riding solo this afternoon.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://ytimg.googleusercontent.com/vi/ItseezKMxc4/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ItseezKMxc4?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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When I get back to the hotel I hear the story of Tony the Tiger's unfortunate day. While riding with Peter, <span style="text-align: center;">Primož noticed a drip coming from the bike. On further inspection, they decide it would be wise to head back and check it out more carefully. Unfortunately, </span><span style="text-align: center;">Primož, who takes care of all the bikes while we're on the tour, realizes that it can't be fixed quickly. So he gives Peter the spare bike, which he has been riding, for an afternoon of solo riding.</span> Peter enjoys the nippiness of the BMW F700 GS and does the 55 k loop programmed into the GPS.</div>
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Karinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05584677414386598653noreply@blogger.com0Colfosco TV, Italy45.838055999999987 12.21722199999999245.815809999999985 12.176709999999993 45.86030199999999 12.257733999999992