Pyramids and more

Friday, October 1

Sadly this is our last day of the tour, but Abdu promised us a good one, and he was right. We were the first bus to arrive at Memphis as the site opened, so that we were able to have a good look at the fallen statue of Ramses II. He has been covered, where he was found. with a viewing structure, to protect him from the elements and the ravages of the tourist hoards.

Although Memphis was one of the capitals of Ancient Egypt, to the casual tourist there is not much evidence of the early civilization - just a few statues, including a lovely alabaster sphinx, some abandonded sarcophogi and the line up of merchants stalls. For the record this was the only place I encountered a dirty washroom. The journey here through the outskirts of Cairo was suddenly very rural with fields and farmland and donkey carts. The road ran beside a canal that was thick with garbage, floating debris and people going about their daily commute.

From Memphis we headed directly to the necropolis of Saqqara where the famous stepped pyramid is located. This pyramid is purported to be the very first pyramid. Accredited to Imhotep and built for the Pharoah Djoser this was an era of breakthrough in architecture and building techniques.

There is much more to this area than the pyramid, but time, on a tour like this, takes its toll and we really only have time for a cursory look and a quick history lesson from Abdu. The enclosure limestone wall, with 40 columns and many false doorways, provides an impressive entrance to the complex. Peter would be able to express better the structural achievements of these times. I would love to have more time to appreciate and explore this area, rich with mastabas, chapels and temples.

Back on the bus and on to Giza. I don't think it matters how many pictures you have seen of the Great Pyramid. Up close, when you come face to face with it for the first time, all of the grand words make sense. It is immense in size and dazzling in its creation. We are suitably at a loss for words, and gaze at the huge blocks that climb upwards to the peak. You can go inside, but we have tickets to the second pyramid so we clamber up a few tiers of rocks, as far as we are allowed just to say we've been there.

The plateau is vast, so we take the bus to the next level which is busy with camels, horses, carts and merchants' stalls. No end of options are offered by the industrious locals for the pleasure of tourists! The line up of tour buses is comical.

We have two goals, to go inside the pyramid of Khafre and to see the reconstructed solar barque. There are no cameras inside the pyramids. But there is nothing really to record except memories. The entry to the second pyramid is steep and very low. You have to double up like a pretzel and creep your way down the narrow passage. There is a brief respite where you can straighten up and then, back down in a crouch again. Enroute you can peer into a mysterious unfinished chamber and see evidence of another passageway. The large granite sarcophagus is the only thing to see in the high vaulted burial chamber - except for the graffiti left by Belzoni in 1818 when he discovered the entrance. We stand for a moment out of respect but the original inhabitant is long gone.

In 1954 there was an incredible discovery in a pit beside the Pyramid of Khufu (great pyramid.) It was a dismantled boat, intended for the use of the pharoah as he made his journey through the underworld. It took 14 years of painstaking reconstruction to re-assemble the boat, in the way it was intended, using hemp to hold it together. A special museum has been built beside the pyramid, near to where it was discovered. The boat demonstrates the incredible craftsmanship, ingenuity and skill of the Ancient Egyptians. I am a great admirer.

And the final item on our agenda is a visit and quick salute to the mighty Sphinx. We are all very hot, tired and dusty. The wind has been blowing desert sand into our eyes and mouths. Even the tourists learn to adopt the traditional head scarf to advantage. And so back to the hotel and fond farewells to our travelling companions. It has been a great journey, an excellent adventure with good companions and a terrific guide.