View from the Pillion - A night in a castle

Monday May 14 - Evening
Perched on the top of a steep hill is the imposing Parador "Ducs de Cardona" set in a castle/fortress, keeping watch over the town that steps down the flanks of the hill to the salt mine below, as it has done for centuries. The salt beds are what gave Cardona its prominence and wealth centuries ago and are still actively mined today.

The steep walled road, with its sharp turns, is just wide enough for one car. I'm not sure how the German tourists in their big Mercedes manage it. Even on the bike it's quite a challenging operaton as we have to go at a walking pace, avoiding pedestrians and other vehicles. At the top, it's so tight that I put my hand onto the wall to steady the bike in the final turn to the small parking lot.

From our corner room in the Castle, we have a birds-eye view of the town's roofs and machines moving on the salt beds far below. The medieval town looks inviting to explore, but it's a long hike back down and we are content to enjoy the sumptuous room with it's three foot stone walls, four poster canopy bed, high pressure shower and a view from the porcelain throne from which a medieval prince could survey his fiefdom.  

The building, parts of which date back to the 10th century, has been carefully updated with all the conveniences needed to house modern tourists in the Parador. The accomodation wing blends seamlessly with the ancient ruins of the courtyards, church, towers and outer walls. It is like staying in a museum and we are free to explore everywhere except the Romanesque Church of Sant Vincenç which has closed for the night.

We watch the sunset from the battlements and head downstairs to the dining room, which is busy with fellow travellers and loaded with atmosphere. The service is impeccable and the food, exquisitely presented, traditional Catalonian dishes. The wine is gum-smackingly delectable and the desserts, irresistible. Okay, so perhaps I am overdoing the superlatives, but it is one of those decadent, perfect evenings, that you have to relish and remember.