The opulance of Istanbul

One of my favourite things about travelling is waking up on the first morning in an unfamiliar city. That mystery and adventure of new discoveries entice me; the slight trepidation of facing the unknown, exploring and soaking in new experiences are my personal high. This morning waking up in the exotic city of Istanbul I am ready for adventure. The first new experience is adjusting to the Turkish style of breakfast spread out buffet style in the rooftop restaurant. Olives, cold cuts of mystery meat, cheese, fresh tomatoes, cucumber and bread are plentiful. Peter struggles to find something that suits him, but I zone in on the excellent yogurt. No coffee other than Nescafe, so I settle for tea. This becomes my drink of choice for most of the trip.

Istanbul is a city that spans two continents. It is surrounded on three sides by water which are important reference points to orientate yourself. From the restaurant windows, we look across rooftops to the Sea of Marmara where dozens of ships wait at anchor to enter the harbour. From the balcony on the east side, we have a view over the old City to the Bosphorus and Asia. We can’t see the Golden Horn, where we were last night on the Galata Bridge.

We set out for the Basilica Cistern this morning, following the main road where the tram runs. Street food and other vendors are busy setting up along the sidewalks, already crowded with pedestrians. The trams are frequent and a vital part of public transportation criss-crossing this huge city. Sometimes they travel on wide roads with cars and busses alongside but they also rumble along narrow streets of the old city, snaking around corners, avoiding the steeper slopes that also give Istanbul part of its unique character.

The Basilica Cistern or Yerebatan Sarnici is one of the many underground cisterns which were part of the water supply and storage system introduced during the Byzantine Roman Empire. Built in the 6^th Century BCE by Emperor Justinian, this is the larger of the two cisterns open to the public today. Even with the hubbub of tourists, the vast dimly lit caverns have a feeling of calm and mystery. Walk ways have been built where previously the only way of moving through the watery space, was by boat. Looking down into the water you can see fat carp swimming amongst the towering forest of marble columns lit with golden light.

The Corinthian and Doric-style columns march in evenly spaced rows into the distance. The most mysterious are the Medusa heads, which draw a crowd or eager photographers (us amongst them.)  

This is a very cool space. Although the word basilica doesn’t refer to a place of worship, the vaulted space has a cathedral-like quality of grandeur that begs for a moment of silence and contemplation. We absorb the atmosphere then head back outside to the bustling cosmopolitan streets and make our way to the Topkapi Palace.
This is a city of many faces. So enroute, we pass old ruins, quaint streets, gardens and mosques, many mosques.

The sumptuousTopkapi Sarayi (Palace) is a testament to the opulence of the Ottoman Empire. It spreads over a large area, with numerous ornate buildings spread through the landscaped gardens. This is one of the most visited tourist sites in the city and the line-up for tickets is long, but moves reasonably quickly. We buy a general entrance ticket, but also the separate Harem ticket. 

This was the domain of the Sultan’s mother, the harem ladies and the eunuchs, who managed the harem. Room after room is covered floor to ceiling with gorgeous tiles and inlaid work. Carpets and large lounging couches are the feature of some of the rooms. Each room has a fountain for running water, a fire place and magnificent views.

 

 After a slow wander through the rooms, courtyards and passageways of the harem we exit into the main palace grounds where we join the queue for the Treasury where all priceless jewels and treasures are on display. The Chamber of the Sacred Relics houses religious artefacts given to the Sultans, including Moses Staff, (really?) and numerous samples of the Prophet Muhammad’s beard. No photographs are allowed in these rooms.

Dotted through the gardens are numerous pavilions built to glorify the triumphs of various sultans. We tour the sultan’s privy chambers, the inner sanctum and on and on. Our minds begin to boggle at the grandiose display of beautiful tiles, stained glass windows, domes, embossed doors, lush carpets and seemingly endless rooms. The views from the main chambers are across the Golden Horn and to the city with buildings crowded on the hills, dotted with domes and minarets. Sadly the palace kitchens are not open for viewing, but after a lunch of kepab in the outdoor restaurant with a view fit for a sultan, it’s time to head back to the hotel and for our orientation meeting with the G Adventures Group.