Zagreb - Day 2

Something I learned a long time ago; you had better like the clothes you're travelling in, because you don't know how long you might be wearing them. So, with our luggage still in limbo, there is no point in being upset that we don't have a change of clothes today. Our carry-on backpacks have all the essentials to get along with.
Adapting quickly to the Zagreb style of people-watching coffee-culture, we have a relaxed start to the day. Breakfast in a cafe is only a very vague notion. Most locals eat something at home and then wander to a cafe for their coffee and social interaction. But home-made chocolate cake, freshly baked and still warm, fills the gap nicely along with cappuccino.

Stairs lead the way through sturdy stone walls, up the hill to Kaptol where the Cathedral dominates the landscape. This is another one of the old towns that could take days to explore.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

We take a wander around the ornately carved stone edifice and visit the even more ornate tomb of a much revered Cardinal which is the centre piece of the sacristy. 

Sightseeing is tiring business!

Continuing on our way, we find a street lined with artists stalls which leads us to the Dolac market. The market is a riot of colour and is captivating with its sights and smells and interesting characters. At a lower level, the meat market is tucked beneath the open air market which sells mostly fruit, vegetables and flowers. Clearly this is were the locals shop and there are plenty of customers.

Dolac Market

For lunch we choose some sandwiches from a local vendor and take them to the closest cafe/bar where we order the tasty local beer and sit in comfort to watch the market scene. The vendors are packing up now and we are amazed at the huge loads that they carry, men and women alike. And for some, when is time to go, they simply drag their boxes of produce behind them.

We have no particular destination for the rest of the day except to wander and enjoy this friendly city and at some point we have to find the ice cream store that Doroteja has strongly recommended to us.

Funicular to the Lower Town

 From the heights of the Old Town, there are good views of the Lower Town which is more open and contemporary with multiple tram routes crossing the town. Stately museum buildings are set in parks that form a horse shoe of green space, offering places to relax and smell the roses - or geraniums or whatever. Squares and side walk cafe/bars abound.

Our luggage is waiting for us when we get back to the apartment. Yay! And yet I wonder, what do we need with all this STUFF?

Time to say good bye to our new friend Doroteya. She has been a wonderful host. We'll stay in touch on FaceBook.

Zagreb: in the Heart of Croatia

Despite a delayed Air Canada departure from Toronto we manage to scurry through Copenhagen airport just in time to board our connecting Croatian Airlines flight to Zagreb. Our luggage isn't as lucky. Another couple from Toronto is in the same predicament and since they speak Croatian, we tag along with them in search of the baggage claim department.Our claims dutifully filed and optimistic that the luggage will be delivered to us, we catch the express bus into the city. It is definitely a cheap (30 kuna for the bus and  6 kuna for the tram), efficient alternative to a taxi. At the bus station, the local Tourist Information office provides us with maps and clear directions about how to navigate the tram system and find our way through the pedestrian streets to our accommodation.

It's a nice introduction to the city, walking from the main square and navigating through the popular cafe-lined Tkalcicva Street to the Apartment Akademia. Check-in is very casually done in the cafe at the entrance to the building. Our host,  Doroteja is delightful, friendly and helpful, After showing us to our comfy apartment she goes out of her way, with a map, to point out places we might want to visit, She promises to keep her eyes open for our luggage, which won't arrive till the next day. Luckily we have two nights in Zagreb. We have chosen to stay mostly in apartments, which in Croatia is a great option to more formal hotels. Everything we might want to see is within easy walking distance. First it's time to join the cafe crowd and find something to eat.

Coffee culture is a way of life in Zagreb. We learn very quickly that most cafes only serve beverages. People sit under the umbrellas and canopies to enjoy the other main occupation; people watching. It's an art form here, on both sides of the activity. People dress up, parade and eventually settle on seats that face towards the street, where they become the audience for a while. We choose the History Cafe as it is one of the few places on this part of the street that serves food, and settle in to enjoy the passing parade. Then the rain comes. Heavy, pelting rain. The parade barely slows down. Umbrellas pop up and the servers rush to take cushions out of the downpour. The crowds thin, but only a bit. We have prime seats and stay dry under a large overhanging canopy, so we relax and wait. It seems that the kitchen is in another restaurant across the street. We watch as servers dash through the rain to cross the street where they pick up the orders, balancing food and umbrellas. 

The rain has settled into a gentle drizzle, but we have umbrellas and only a short time to see whatever sites Zagreb has to offer. The pedestrian street we're on was once a river which divided two towns. We take some steep stairs and enter the Old Town through the Stone Gate. It has a well visited shrine where people have left offerings and candles. There are plenty of interesting places in the Old City, but it's already getting dark and the only museum open is the very quirky Museum of Broken Relationships. Developed around the idea of giving closure to those who have suffered trauma through broken relationships, it is a mixture of odd, very personal stories and exhibits. We find it strangely fascinating. By the time we have read our way slowly through the exhibits, Peter's back is suffering from a severe case of "Museum fatigue." St Marks Church, dating from the 14th Century is the Parish Church of the Old City. With its eye catching, much-photographed tiled roof, it takes central place in St Marks Square. The tiles depict the coat of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia.

Heading back through the city, lively with people congregating in outdoor cafes and watching soccer and baseball on outdoor screens, the Bulldog Pub beckons. We are ushered to the restaurant downstairs in an old wine cellar where we have a delicious dinner. A good way to end our first day of our vacation. We go home to our cosy apartment, happily agreeing that Zagreb is our kind of town. 

Croatia revisited

After our motorcycle tour that took us briefly to a small part of Croatia, I lamented that we missed the two towns in Croatia that are on my bucket list - Dubrovnik and Split. So that provided the challenge to create a trip that would include them and give us some other touring options. In the end we chose to do another G Adventures tour, but this time by sailboat. Their eight day, Dubrovnik to Split itinerary seemed perfectly paired with a driving holiday starting in Zagreb.
https://www.gadventures.com/trips/sailing-croatia-dubrovnik-to-split/2340/

We designed the first part of the trip to start in Zagreb, rent a car and make our way through different terrain,, a National Park and small towns, with a short detour into Bosnia & Herzegovina before meeting our fellow G Adventurer/Sailors in Dubrovnik. 

Zagreb market

Enroute to Plitvitce Lakes

Plitvitce Lakes National Park

Zadar, Salute to the Sun

Trogir waterfront

Mostar, Bosnia 

Dubrovnik

Split

View from the Pillion - Last day of our ride

We're heading back to Ljubljana today - which as the crow flies, is not that far away. But we have some passes, mountain roads and sights to see on the way. We start with an invigorating ride through the Vršič Pass, in the reverse direction from the previous day. It's not as wet today, but the cobblestones and the tight corners are still intimidating. I find myself counting the turns, which are clearly numbered and when we get to 50 we're through the pass. This type of riding is quite tiring even for the pillion.

A brief stop at a ski resort, which is busy even at this time of year with many visitors and a big contingent of Harley riders gathering for their convention. We continue en route through the Julian Alps.

Riding beside rivers, around mountains and along lush valleys, we come to the beautiful spa town of Bled. Situated on a glacial lake which boasts Slovenia's only island, it is picture perfect and the whole setting seems staged for romantic fantasies. 

Now a busy centre of tourism, Bled is a very old town, appearing first in written documentation way back in 1004. The ferry man rows us in a traditional flat-bottomed wooden boat to the island past swans and dawdling row boats. Tradition has it that at weddings, the groom has to carry his wife up the 90 steps to the church. We pause for a group photo. 

The view from the top is enchanting; across the lake to Bled Castle perched perilously on the top of a sheer cliff, Entry to the castle is free if you eat at the restaurant, so it makes perfect sense to make this our lunch stop. The food is excellent with plenty of local specialties. I order the John Dory, a fish I don't think I have ever eaten and Peter has the deer. They are both delicious. It is very relaxing sitting in the sun in the courtyard of this ancient castle. We all cherish the moment and reflect on the fun, the camaraderie and the exhilaration of our adventure together. 

At Bohinj Lake we stop very briefly before continuing on for our last mountain ride of the journey.

Soon after, the heavens open and we are pelted by heavy rain. So we stop beside a heavily wooded area and try to get some shelter while we quickly slip on our rain gear. By now we have become experts at doing this and it's not long before we are on our way again. But as soon as we crest the pass, the rain stops, the roads are dry and we have a nice ride to the lovely medieval village of Škofja Loka.

Škofja Loka is  one of the oldest settlements in Slovenia. It is a well preserved oasis in the middle of a bustling, modern town. Dan leads us through a maze of streets to the town square where we find a table and have our last coffee stop together as a group.

There are some nice shops in the narrow streets and June wanders off for a recce, returning with a stylish pair of sandals. It's time to say good by to Dan's daughter, Karin who will be leaving us along the last leg of the trip. We all enjoyed having her along for the ride and I think she had a good time too.

Back at the headquarters of Adriatic Moto Tours we are warmly greeted by Primož and other staff. Champagne is popped and we toast each other and give warm thanks to Dejan who has been an excellent guide; making each day a new adventure. Warm hugs to Primož too who was so much fun, took care of our bikes and made sure our bags were delivered to the right rooms every night.

Peter and I have an early departure in the morning, so back at Hram Kmeki, we enjoy a last delicious Slovenian meal and say our good byes to the group.