An evening in Zadar

The route to Zadar is fairly straightforward and should take less than two hours by car. There are a couple of unique features to the small city of Zadar; both public art installations on the seafront. The best time to be there is at sunset, so we set out with that in mind. 

Our accommodation is at the Apartments Villa Karma booked, as all of our places on this trip, through Booking.com. Their app is really helpful, with all our bookings, directions, contact information etc easily available on my phone. GPS directions take us straight to the parking lot, but it takes us a while to figure out where the apartment building is. And when we get there, there is no apparent entrance, just a notice on a door with a phone number. Finally, using sign language, we explain our dilemma to an elderly tenant who spots us through her ground floor window. She gets on the phone and shortly a statuesque young woman appears to usher us to our apartment. She apologies and says we have had to be upgraded, since the other guests didn't want to climb stairs. So up two flights of stairs, we are shown into a large two bedroom apartment with spacious kitchen and living area and a nice view. A bit more than we need, but a bargain for 58 euros.

We are a good 20 minutes walk along the waterfront from the spot where the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation are located and by the time we head out, the sun has already painted gorgeous orange streaks across the sky. It's a beautiful evening and the waterfront is busy with evening strollers.

I read about Zadar in the Lonely Planet. It's not on the regular tourist beat and it would be easy to miss this compact but charming town. Packed with Roman ruins, Medieval Churches and narrow pedestrian streets, it is situated in a lovely spot on the Dalmatian Coast. Zadar was once a stronghold of the mighty Venetians and was well fortified with strong encircling walls. No longer impregnable, we enter past a tiny harbour, through the impressive Land Gate with the symbol of Venice, the Lion of Saint Mark guarding the entrance.

The Sea Organ is a musical instrument that is played by the action of the sea. Designed by Nikola Bašić, it is an intriguing series of concrete steps at the edge of the sea with pipes that create sounds with the rhythm of the waves. As the water swells and washes against the steps, the sounds from the pipes play a haunting tune. When we get there, a crowd of people has gathered; enjoying the sunset and the eerie sea organ music.

Nearby is another fascinating public art installation designed by Croatian architect Bašić. The Sun Salutation or Greeting to the Sun, is a series of glass tiles set in the waterfront promenade, powered by the sun. As the sun sets, the stored solar energy creates a series of random, changing coloured light patterns. It is a popular place tonight. People sit, lie and pose on the colourful mosaic. Lots of selfies are taken. I try a bit of video but its hard to capture the effects on my point and shoot camera.

For the rest of the evening, we wander the narrow cobbled streets of the walled city. We stop to admire the competing displays of the ice cream stores, but after  good dinner in a courtyard restaurant, even I have to say no to the tempting treat. We settle instead for a cappuccino in a quiet square where remnants of the once powerful Roman Empire litter the landscape.