Tuesday, September 20When we open our door in the morning we are able to see across a central courtyard with a pretty garden, past a small farmyard, to a lovely view of the lake. The villagers are already busy at their daily tasks. It is all very rural and picturesque. A simple breakfast of boiled eggs, fresh (fried) bread, jam and coffee is waiting for us in the kitchen. Our hosts lead us down the hill to the dock. Everyone poses for photos, with waves and hugs, we take our leave of the community of Luquina Chico and head back across the lake for a stop at the floating islands.
About 50 reed islands, sprouting reed huts, ornately decked out with all kinds of sculptural fantasies and fronted by uniquely crafted reed boats appeared like a startling Disneyesque movie set. Brightly dotted on the islands and in the boats are the local inhabitants in brightly coloured skirts and jackets. It's a cheerful sight. The mostly Quechua population began this unusual style of living for practical reasons, subsisting on fishing and farming on the nearby mainland - today their business is mostly tourism, and they engage in it with gusto. There are plenty of other tourist boats around each one headed to a different island. Somehow or other, our guide Percy has pre-selected an island where a welcome committee is waiting to greet us. Each island is a small community with an elected leader; at this island it is a woman and she assisted in her duties by her husband. With Percy as interpreter, they explain some of the island customs and demonstrate how the floating islands are made. The island ladies line up and sing to us ending their little show with "row, row, row your boat" together with hand signals, like kids do in kindergarten. I doubt if any of them really know the meaning of the words. But its sweet and we applaud happily. After this we are invited to visit the living quarters. 
Two by two we are led off by a different family to see their reed home. Mostly this turns out just to be a chance to sell us the goods that they supposedly make on the island; craft work of all kinds. The sales pitch is very direct and escaping without at least one purchase is impossible. Fortunately we find a couple of things we like. Business over, we are ushered outside. I am disappointed that we don't get a geniune tour of their tiny hut. The groups clambers onto one of the ceremonial-looking reed boats and we are rowed by two of the islanders for a short trip around the islands. These boats are just for tourist show; the locals use simpler row boats and also zip around in motor boats.
Back on our own boat, Manuel has laid out a picnic lunch which we eat as we head back to Puno. At the Hotel Italia, we are reunited with our luggage and valuables that have been stored for us. Tonight at dinner, Manuel has decided we should be introduced to the local delicacy of roasted guinea pig. The cute, cuddly little animal that we usually think of as a house pet is served, head and all, crispy and spread eagled on a platter. We share one amongst a group of us. There's not much meat to it, but the taste is okay. There is lively folkloric dancing to entertain us and introduce us to some of the many dances of the area.
And just for Alice, I have to mention that this is the evening that the apple incident took place. This was the first of several silly moments that had us in tears with laughter - I think the altitude was effecting us!
Back on our own boat, Manuel has laid out a picnic lunch which we eat as we head back to Puno. At the Hotel Italia, we are reunited with our luggage and valuables that have been stored for us. Tonight at dinner, Manuel has decided we should be introduced to the local delicacy of roasted guinea pig. The cute, cuddly little animal that we usually think of as a house pet is served, head and all, crispy and spread eagled on a platter. We share one amongst a group of us. There's not much meat to it, but the taste is okay. There is lively folkloric dancing to entertain us and introduce us to some of the many dances of the area.
And just for Alice, I have to mention that this is the evening that the apple incident took place. This was the first of several silly moments that had us in tears with laughter - I think the altitude was effecting us!
The community on the island has its own elected leaders. The municipal building and church are both locked, as there is no priest and no money to run the government offices. The school, however, is fully operational. Percy describes some of the local customs - including the courting rituals - which involves flashing a mirror at the boy of your choice, and pelting him with stones to attract his attention. I guess facebook hasn't reached the island. Our short walk uphill walk to the main square was an introduction to climbing at high altitude. So far so good. The only effects I am feeling from the altitude is some tingling in my fingers and that could be from the altitude pills. Back on the boat, the sun comes out and we bake in its rays - but careful to lather up with sunscreen. Now we are on our way to Luquina Chico for our homestay. At the dock we are enthusiastically greeted by the local families and are led ceremoniously, with musical accompaniment, to the town meeting place. Here we find another Gap group is enjoying a soccer game against a team of the locals. The Gap team wins. Now we are introduced to our homestay hosts. To our surprise, they proceed to dress us up in traditional dress. 
Accomodation was simple but comfortable enough. Three beds filled the room and we were delighted to find an electric light and an ensuite bathroom. There was only a trickle of water at the sink and the toilet need the assistance of water from a handy bucket to fulfill its job of flushing. But this was more luxury than we expected. We were welcomed by the family of mother, father and three teenagers in the cosykitchen where we presented the mother with the gifts of fruit, oil, rice and sugar that we had been advised to bring along. Luckily for us, Marco, the guide from the other Gap group was billeted with us. He acted as an interpreter which saved us an uncomfortable evening of sign and body language. We had a tasty meal of barley soup and a dish of rice, potatoes and veggies. Back in our room, we discovred that the water was turned off for the night - but never mind. The beds were covered in many layers of heavy blankets, so despite the chill of the night and the rainstorm that swept through the village during the night, we are snug and warm in bed.
The flight to the dusty town of Juliaca is quick and we are immediately transferred to a coach that will transport us to the town of Puno. We are also joined by Percy, who will be our local guide while we are in this area.
This is not really a toursim centre and I am surprised how many people in the towns and surrounding countryside wear the traditional dress that we see in tourist brochures. 
Puno is built on the steep hillside rising up from Lake Titicaca. This is our departure point for a two days on the lake. But first, we settle into the pleasant Hotel Italia explore the town.
Perched above the coast line, tucked into the cliffside was a contemporary shopping and entertainment centre, Lacomar. If we were in a shopping mood, this would have been perfect, great for people watching - but also a good spot for restaurants, which as it turned out was where we dined with our group in the evening.
