Notes for next time

Our Italian adventure was fantastico.

1. The mix of activities made a good balance. Hiking the Cinque Terre was a unique adventure that we loved. In retrospect, it would have been easier if we had done it after a few more days of climbing the steep streets of some of the hill towns.


2. Amazing sites and memorable views - the Campo (square) in Siena and the view of it and the surrounding countryside from the top of the Mangia Tower, ranks as # 1. Views of Rome from the Castel d' Angelo and the Pincio are also spectacular. And of course, the cliffside panorama from the Cinque Terre coastal path is breathtaking - and this, from someone raised in Cape Town, is saying something.


3. All the hotels were excellent and we would go back to them again. Each had something unique - Hotel Orcagna in Florence had the best room, best WiFi access and was by far the best value; Hotel Porticciolo in Fumicino is a convenient stop from the airport - also had the best bathroom; Hotel Oceania in Roma was quite a find on a quiet street, but convenient to train station and many great sites; Hotel Porta Romana in Siena had the best breakfast and great views of Tuscan countryside; Hotel Al Sole in Venezia in the old palazzo was a perfect location for bus, train or vaporetto, but also away from the hub bub of tourist mayhem - quite reasonable by Venetian standards; Locanda Ca'Dei Duxi in charming Riomaggiore arranged parking, which is essential if you arrive in the Cinque Terre by car.


4. Loved all the towns we visited, but our favourite is Siena. Would like to return and stay longer in the area and explore the wineries and hill towns of Tuscany more. Peter would add - the roads in the area are great for motorcyles.


5. The car rental through Kemwell was a bargain. Everything went smoothly and there were no hidden charges. A discount online booking service, we would definitely use them again.


6. Overall the food was delizioso. Our favourite restaurant was the San Pietro in Siena where Peter had an amazing steak dinner, a specialty of the area. I also loved the funky little place behind the Piazza Navona in Rome. - don't know its name.


7. Best gelato was in Venice. Second best, at Ed's in Toronto.


8. Must go back - to see Ostia Antica, the ancient port city of Rome that we missed; the secret Medici passage across the Ponte Vecchio in Firenze; the Borghese Gallery and the newly unveiled archeological dig of Hadrian's Auditorium in Rome; re-visit Siena and explore the Tuscan coutryside; etc etc.

Arrivederci Roma

Oct 2: Time to end our Italian adventure. Not much time for more site seeing, so we took one last walk around our neighbourhood – down quiet Via Firenze, past the guard outside the Ministry of Defense across from the hotel, past the motorcycle/scooter parking that Peter checked out every day, past the local Gelataria which was good for a late night snack and the Pizzeria which looked good, but where we never ate, past the McDonalds which we ignored except to use it as a landmark – to the busy, bustling Via Nazionale. Strolling along aimlessly we came across a fascinating church the Chiesa San Vitale, which looked very old judging from its façade and the fact that it was significantly lower than the modern street level. Later we found out that it was built in the 4th Century with renovations up to the 16th Century. The antiquity and excellent condition boggles the mind. It was beautiful and dim; a nice respite from the pace of modern Rome, a veritable sanctuary.
As one last church visit, we stopped into the Chiesa Santa Maria Maggiore. In contrast to the previous church, this is very grand. There has been a church on the site since 350, but the current church was completed in the 18th century. It is filled with beautiful mosaics, marble, gilding and all the other displays of richness that Catholic churches excel in. There was a service taking place, so we stayed at the back and just admired what we could from a distance.
Going through frantic Termini Station once again, the express train got us very efficiently to the airport and there the efficiency ended. The next part of line-ups and security were beyond the usual airport tedium. Best not to dwell on that.
Arrivederci Bella Italia. It has been wonderful.

Roma - Day 3

October 1 – The Metro got us quickly to the Vatican Museum. After going through metal detectors and bag-scans, we were free to enter. We had both dressed appropriately to pass the scrutiny of the modesty police (no bare shoulders or shorts). Tour groups tend to come early to the museum so it was pretty crowded for the first part as we made our way directly to the Sistine Chapel. On the way we went through rooms that were painted by Raphael around the same time that Michelangelo was labouring on the Sistine ceiling. These frescoes were for me, some of the most stunningly beautiful murals. The walk to the Sistine Chapel winds through miles of corridors, each one more ornately decorated than the next with tapestries, maps, paintings.
Finally the moment arrived. We stepped through the door behind the altar and were in the room of the master - Michelangelo. This is the only place in the Vatican where no photography is allowed. The crowd was dense and the security guards were at their wits end trying to keep everyone quiet. The crowd was shushed many times during our half hour visit but the recorded message in about 10 languages asking for quiet and admonishing people not to take photos, was far more disturbing than the low murmur of voices. Our downloaded audio guide was an excellent guide to the Michelangelo’s masterpiece on the ceiling and the later “Judgment Day” painting behind the altar.
There are 4 miles of corridors and galleries in the Vatican Museum. We travelled quite a distance as we explored many parts of the museum particularly the Egyptian and Etruscan Galleries. We followed a tip in our travel guide and returned to the Sistine Chapel so that we could exit through the right hand door which leads directly to St. Peter’s Basilica. This popped us outside beside the line up to the Dome and the entrance to the Crypts. As we walked throught the crypts past the shrine to St. Peter and graves of many popes, the sound of hymns could be clearly heard from the Basilica above. The Basilica, designed to inspire awe in the early Catholic congregations, is grand in scale, rich in artwork and pretty much overwhelmingly ostentatious. We sat for a while in the square and enjoyed the symmetry of the pillars.
After lunch at a sidewalk pizzeria, we toured the nearby Castel Sant’ Angelo built as the tomb of Hadrian. It’s had many uses since, including a safe place for popes in turbulent times. There is a long elevated corridor that looks something like an aqueduct that connects the Castel to the Vatican.

Unfortunately Paola was not able to join us for dinner so we decided to explore another area of Rome. We crossed the river by the Ponte S.Angelo, lined with statues of angels from the school of Bernini and wound our way through backstreets before recrossing into the Trastevere. This formerly gritty working class district is know for its nightlife. I remembered going there for dinner as a student a long, long time ago. I even remembered the name of the restaurant and surprisingly it was still in business, but it had a distinctly tourist-trap aura to it, so we went looking for something else. After some random wandering we selected Ai Spaghettari Vinerria which claimed to have been around since 1896. We chose well. Another delicious Italian meal with wine from local Lazio region.

Roma - Day 2

Sept. 30: We had a slower start today and spent some time after our pastry rich breakfast booking tickets for the Vatican Museum and planning our day’s sightseeing. The hotel staff are very accommodating, making phone calls and giving advice. We had hoped to visit the Borghese Gallery but there are no openings this week. Ah, another reason to come back to Rome!
The Roma Pass includes travel on public transportation, so we hopped on the Metro to the Piazza del Popolo which is dominated by the tall Egyptian obelisk dedicated to Ramses II. From here we climbed up the hill for a view of the piazza from the Pincio. We wandered without any real destination, through the park which is part of the Borghese Gardens, until we found ourselves at the church at the top of the Spanish Steps. It was baking hot in the sun, so we didn’t linger but continued to wander until we found the Trevi Fountain. It was thronged with tourists; throwing their coins into the fountain and enjoying the relative cool of splashing water. Of course, we dutifully tossed coins into the fountain so that we would return to Rome one day. The sculpture of the fountain is luscious with gorgeous flowing marble. I noticed something about bird traffic. Only one pigeon landed and stayed at the fountain. Others swooped by and then took off without landing. This seems to be the same at all the major sites in Rome. Is there some pigeon deterring device that is installed? If so, would it work for geese on the beaches in Toronto?
Toursist-ing is punctuated by the need to find good places to munch and people watch. So, next stop was a restaurant under a colonnade where pigeons behaved more like the pesky creatures they usually are, and made quick forays to the empty tables where plates had not been cleared. The wait staff had to hustle to keep the tables clean and the birds at bay.
The afternoon’s adventure started with ride on Bus # 64 on Via Nazionale to the Mercati de Traiano and Fora. The Roma Pass got us free entrance and we found it practically deserted. This remarkable site includes well preserved remains of buildings that housed stores, markets and offices as well as the ruins of for a built by three different Roman emperors. The famous Trajan Column looms over it all. Some of the rooms had well displayed artifacts, with excellent annotations. A short film explained the layout and changes over the centuries. Well worth the visit.
Getting back onto the bus, we found it was crowded to the point of invasion of personal privacy. Italians apparently think nothing of cozying right up to the person next to them on the bus; with some suggestive moves thrown in for good measure. At least that was my experience. It was hard to see where the bus was going so we opted to get off and find our way by foot to the river and the Synagogue. This was the place where we had arranged to meet my good friend Marina’s cousin, Paola. We had a brief meeting, but sadly Paola had to get back to her mother’s bedside in the hospital on Tiburna Island. This was very disappointing for all of us, but we planned to meet the following day, with her husband, for dinner.
I think we were starting to get a little blasé as we walked by temples, ruins, artefacts, random bits of marble…. So we were somewhat nonchalant as we strolled casually with the Palatine Hill on our left and the huge expanse of the Circus Maximus, where chariot races used to take place, on our right.
For dinner we decided to try Gusto’s a restaurant recommended by a friend in Toronto. We found Gusto’s with the help of Peter’s I-phone and an unexpected free WiFi access. The food was good, the service excellent and wine superb – Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Reserva) 2003.

Rome wasn't visited in a day - Day One

Sept. 29:
Today we dropped off the car at the airport and took the Leonardo Express train to Termini Station. The tranquility of our gentle wandering in the Italian countryside vanished in the blur of urban chaos that defines Rome. This might be intimidating to some people but we happily immersed ourselves in the busy hum of the city. Hauling our suitcases behind us, weaving through the mobs of pedestrians, dodging cars and aggressive scooters, we made our way to the Hotel Oceania, about 15 minutes walk. On the third floor of a 19th Century Palazzo, the hotel was a welcoming oasis of air conditioned calm.
As the saying goes, Rome wasn’t built in a day and with all its magnificent sites, ancient relics and vibrant neighbourhoods to explore, it’s hard to know where to start. We didn’t have any time to waste. We quickly purchased a Roma Pass at the nearby Museo Nazionale and spent the rest of the afternoon immersed in the Coliseum and Imperial Forum. For me, the legacy of buildings and infrastructure of the ancient Romans is the main draw to the city. Walking on stone paving laid by hands over 2000 years ago, touching the ancient walls and admiring the skill of those early craftsmen, leaves me awestruck. We gaped and photographed and were suitably enthralled. Since the last time I was in Rome (1987), a lot of work has been done to make touring the ancient sites more accessible for visitors. In the Forum we used a Rick Steve’s audio guide which was a great help in steering us through, what might otherwise be seen as a maze of rubble and marble pillars. Imagine, the Vestal Virgins once tended the flame in the temple here, Julius Caesar was burned and still honoured on this spot and the Emperor Caligula lorded it over in the Palazzo set into the hillside there. 40 % of the adjoining Palatine Hill has been excavated and we took our time enjoying all the sites.

On our way out of the Forum we took time to admire the splendid Piazza del Campidoglio on the Capitoline Hill designed by Michelangelo. We gave only a brief glance at the gleaming white Victor Immanuel Monument as we headed off towards the Pantheon. The most classic of all monuments, the Pantheon is the perfect dome. We stayed until the announcement that the sanctuary was closing for the night, sent us out in search of a well-earned dinner. On our way we circled the famous Piazza Navona which was a hub of tourist activity with all the accompanying vendors and buskers. We avoided the expensive restaurants that ring the piazza and settled on a small street side eatery. The server prided himself on his knowledge of wine and so we celebrated day one in Roma with a delicious bottle of 2000 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

All roads lead to Roma

Sept.28 – There was a lovely sunrise over the Tuscan hills when we got up to head out on the next leg of our journey. Our first stop was on the outskirts of Rome near the airport in Fiumicino. The drive from Siena was somewhat tedious due to construction and very slow speed limits. Our goal was to get to the hotel and head out immediately to the ruins of Ostia Antica, the ancient port of Rome. For this reason we had chosen a direct route, instead of the windy hilly route. The Hotel Al Porticciolo, although nothing to look at from the outside, turned out to be a very pleasant surprise with stylish décor, jazz playing at the reception and all modern conveniences. We particularly liked the very well appointed bathroom.However, the next part of the day was the first set back of our trip – the archeological site of Ostia Antica was closed (Monday.) I kicked myself mentally for making such a stupid goof – a really novice tourist error. Not to be deterred we went to check out the nearby Lido di Ostia. The beach which is where Romans come to frolic at the seaside, was pretty nice with black volcanic sand but most of it was private beach access and it had a somewhat inhospitable feeling. So we headed back to the hotel and found a Laundromat instead. The hotel had a very nice restaurant specializing in fish. We were lucky because normally it would have been closed on Monday, but there was a small wedding party and they graciously allowed the hotel residents to use a few tables and enjoy the special wedding menu.

Ahhhhh...Siena

Sept. 27 – Siena gets four thumbs up. We both love this city. We had planned to do some driving through wine country, but instead we opted to spend the whole day in Siena. We bought a museum pass which gave us entry to a whole lot of sites. Our first stop, while our legs were fresh, was the climb to the top of the Mangia Tower. This ancient bell tower is part of the complex overlooking the main square and gives spectacular views for miles around. The entry point is the same courtyard where the previous night we happened on a string quartet playing Pachelbel’s Canon. The 300 steps to the top are very narrow and you have to check everything except a camera at the ticket booth. Passing people making their way in the opposite direction makes for an interesting experience of juggling bodies. A couple of the old bells no longer move, but at the top we were suddenly startled as the big bell began to chime the hour. Soon after, bells from church tops all around began to echo the chimes.

Next visit was to the very beautiful Duomo including the Cripta and after an excellent lunch we went through the Baptistery and the Duomo Museum which took us to another panoramic view of the City and its square. In some ways all of the amazing art is beginning to blur but we received a pretty good education all round on the Renaissance artists and their influence. We joined in the celebrations as the Palio contradas displayed their colours and were lauded with speeches which of course we couldn’t understand, but we could feel the excitement and applauded along with the supporters of the winning group.

Then we actually took some time out to relax at the hotel patio with a glass of wine while I did a bit of catch on the blog – but I am way out of date. This section is being completed 4 days later in Rome.

We took a Rick Steve’s guide book restaurant recommendation as being a hangout of locals, but I think his promotion of it has turned it into something of a tourist mecca. The meal was fine, but nothing special, although we have become somewhat spoilt with the excellent Italian cuisine. Wines are always good.

San Gimignano & Volterra

Sept.26 – The drive to Siena was through beautiful Tuscan countryside, just as beautiful as the travel guides picture it. We stopped in the hill town of San Gimignano. The town is famous for its towers; only a small percentage of which have survived. Every way we turned there was some new scenic view of towers, alleys and quaint buildings. It was made more charming by the sounds of a harp playing in a small park and a flute in another small piazza overlooking the old walls. A few artists had set up to display and sell their work along the walkways. A kind shopkeeper allowed us to use her WC as the public one was at the other end of town. I thought it was only right to give her some business and buy some olive oil. After a good walk around town admiring views and a very simple but charming mediaeval church, we moved on to the ancient town of Volterra. This town dates back to the Etruscans, followed by the Romans and on through time to present day, sleepy, non tourist town. The ruins of a Roman Theatre and Baths were the highlight for us.

We took a back road into Siena which was windy and scenic. Our powder blue “Power Panda” as we called our little feisty Fiat, proved its worth as we swooped our way to the Porta Romano gate of Sienna where our hotel was located. The aptly named Hotel Porta Romana had parking - a bonus in these walled Tuscan towns - and a room with a post card view of the hilly landscape. We headed into town for a quick browse and dinner. The walk into the centre of town was an uphill 10 minute hike but by now we were used to the hill towns and their inclines. The Campo (Main Square) is pretty spectacular. This is where the Palio is held in July and August – a wild horse race around the square with fierce competition between the 17 Contradas (districts.) “Spend an evening in a sleepy mediaeval town” our guide book suggested. Well, let me tell you, Siena is anything but sleepy. The locals like to play. And the tourists can join in at will. We happened to be there on a weekend when they were celebrating the winning of the Palio in July. There were parades and music, costumes and flags. After dinner in a little restaurant squeezed onto a series of platforms jutting into an alley way, we joined some of the parading groups in their celebrations. We were both enchanted by the friendliness of the locals and the fun of the old mediaeval traditions that still carry on.

Hill towns of Tuscany - San Gimignano & Volterra; enroute to Siena

Firenze - birth of the Renaissance

Sept. 25 - My memory of Florence is of artistic sensory overload. From the moment we arrived at the piazza beside the Duomo, it seemed that you couldn’t turn around without finding some new treasure of art history. We followed the Rick Steves audio Renaissance Tour that we downloaded onto the IPod. Thanks to Susie for the earphone splitter, we were able to walk tethered by earphones and hear commentary on some of the famous sites. This helped us focus instead of being completely overwhelmed. We were lucky to beat the crowds into the Duomo and then took the stroll down to the Ponte Vecchio stopping at many amazing sites along the way.

The Ponte Vecchio is such a beautiful bridge, lined with very high end jewellery shops. Not much tourist kitsch there. We lunched on amazing pizza at a contemporary styled restaurant with a view of the Arno River. After lunch I went to look for a store where I bought a beautiful skirt and top on a previous trip. I don’t think the place we ended up in was the same store, but the owner, who has a design brand called Siste’s, delighted in the whole process of showing me how his clothes should be worn – how could I resist buying a skirt, a versatile black sweater and a “design mistake” top, which he sold at discount price?

We had pre-booked tickets for the Ufizzi Gallery, which enabled us to beat the line-up. Using Rick Steves audio guide again, we were able to make some sense of the rich art treasures that fill the gallery. In the evening we stopped for a drink in a lovely piazza beside the Chiesa San Croce. A busker set up with his guitar, harmonica and portable sound system and filled the evening with soulful Italian songs interspersed with mellow Neil Young. Local residents came out to play – one family kicking a soccer ball around, a young girl on her bicycle doing circuits of the square. It was magical, so we stayed for dinner. Since beef is a Tuscan specialty we had the 1 kilo Florentine steak, with a good bottle of Chianti and Espresso to round it out.

Glorious Florence

Enroute to Firenze (Florence)

En route to Firenze (Florence)

Sept. 24 – The route to Firenze took us through several towns, the port/resort town of La Spezia, Carrara, and Massa before we entered the rolling hills and pastoral scenery of Tuscany. Going through the outskirts of Carrara we could see the cuts in the quarries where marble is excavated. We passed many marble warehouses where marble is cut and finished. Our first stop was in Lucca, a walled town where the ancient city co-exists harmoniously with contemporary lifestyles. Here we found the fountain of life – or at least an old tap where the locals come to fill their water bottles, claiming that the water cures all ailments. We filled several bottles there, feeling very pleased with ourselves.

The old town of Lucca is a maze of streets, where high fashion stores operate side by side with ancient churches and other tourist attractions. The old walls encircle the city with a walking/cycling route. From there we had great views of the old city and the scenery beyond.

On to Pisa, which I thought of as an obligatory stop to at least say we saw the Leaning Tower, or the Hanging Tower as it is called in the guidebook for Tuscano. (Translation into English, we find, is quite often quite poor, even in the most prestigious museums.) We were very surprised at how beautiful and elegant the Tower and surrounding buildings are. The lean might be interesting, and I do have a photo of Peter pushing it over, but its design and setting are really lovely. The area was mobbed with tourists, but there was plenty space to get great views of the tower and the Duomo.

The next part of the journey was on the Autostrada to make up some time and get to our hotel before dark. At this point the GPS, which we have nicknamed GyPSy, proved its worth. Without the guidance of the very patient voice to warn us which way to go and where the turns were coming up, we would have been a mess. Peter managed the ferocious Firenze traffic snarls like a pro and muscled the car into lanes, just like a local. We arrived with flawless precision at the door of our hotel.

The Hotel Orcagna, just outside the Traffico Controlo Zona, was another pleasant surprise. The cheapest hotel on our trip, pre-paid for by mistake (mine) online, was a great choice. Located in a residential area, walking distance from the city centre, the room was the best on the trip so far. We had a balcony facing an inner courtyard, with a view of typical Florence tile- roofed buildings, golden with the setting sun. We were enthusiastically welcomed by the receptionist who proceeded to explain the where, when and why of the parking situation. Apparently the neighbourhoods of Firenze have street cleaning on appointed nights, at which time all cars have to be off the streets from midnight to 6 am. We were directed to a street for free overnight parking, but with instructions to move it very early in the morning.

Lucca and Pisa, Tuscany

Hiking Cinque Terrre

There are 5 towns linked by hiking trails which thread, sometimes precariously on the cliffside, with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea waaay below. There are no cars allowed into the towns so the other main connection between them is the train. Each of the towns has its own character but they all basically survive on wine making from the vineyards perched on terraces above the towns, olive groves, fishing and the tourist trade.

From Riomaggiore we set out on the easiest section of the trail, a stroll in the park, so to speak. It didn’t seem like much of a challenge. The scenery in every direction was breathtaking; sea, rocks, vineyards, mountains and always another quaint town beckoning in the distance. In about 30 minutes we arrived in the town of Manarola. A friendly local pointed out the best views which were from the cemetery. Naturally the deceased get the best outlook of the town and the seascape. On the trail to the next town, we got caught up in a parade of tourists with their walking poles, but we lost them on the steep stairs into Corniglia. After a brief stop for yummy forcacia and lemon soda, we headed out for Vernassa. The longest stretch of the trail, it was much tougher and the crowds thinned out. This and the last section to the fifth town are not for the faint of heart, Thank goodness for skiing and Pilates or I would have expired in a heap half way along the final tortuous climb before the vertical descent into Monterosa. But at the end of the journey we were rewarded with a swim in the ocean. The local train got us back to our little home base of Riomaggiore in half and hour; somewhat quicker than the 6.5 hours (with stops for lunch and gelato) that it took us to hike.

A good bottle of local wine from the vineyard of the friend of our waiter, and a thick tuna steak gave us enough energy to stagger back up the hill to bed. This time we had the sense to close the windows and the blinds so that we wouldn’t be jolted awake with the chimes from the church tower followed by cocks crowing – but well preceded by the trundling of garbage trucks cleaning up the town for the next onslaught of tourists.

I have to thank a friendly ski guide at Sun Peaks and Ben from the office for recommending the Cinque Terre as a special place to visit.

Route to Riomaggiore

Route to Riomaggiore:

Sept. 22 – Pick up rental car, follow pre-programmed GPS to the Autostrada via Padova to Vicenza, then on through Verona and Parma to the curvy road we found on the map, to the town of Riomaggiore, easterly entry to the Cinque Terre; distance of about 400 km. – sounds simple. Right? Well, yes and no. Somewhere in the first 10 minutes we made a wrong turn, according to our polite GPS voice. After which, we criss-crossed small towns and country road to get back on course;. which we did by luck and common sense. Then we got into a tight tangle of streets in Vicenza. I lost faith in the GPS at that point.

Fortunately Peter did not as afterwards it steered us successfully through the maze of streets through Parma to the most incredible mountain route of twisting road and breathtaking views. Of course, there are two versions of this part of the journey; mine as I braced myself white-knuckled and gamely tried to enjoy the vista and Peter’s as he whooped it up cranking turns and pushing our poor little Fiat Panda to its limits.

Arrived at dusk, watching the sun set over the Mediterranean, from the dizzy cliff heights of the only road to Riomaggiore, we find ourselves in a stunningly beautiful village, clinging to the steep rock face. The Hotel Locanda Ca' Dei Duxi had blessedly reserved us one of the cherished parking spots. Most cars pay a premium to park at the village edge, or risk the free parking allowed on the side of the mountain access road. After getting past the fairly surly guardian of the entry point we were welcomed to the Hotel by a signorina, formerly from Toronto! Our room, up three steep flights of stairs, has a sublime view from corner window, down the main street.
More to come as we hike the trails between the 5 villages.

Venezia - the living museum

Sept. 20, 2009

The somewhat tedious flight, due to a long stopover in Rome, was quickly forgotten when we landed at Marco Polo Airport and caught the Express Bus into Venice. It was only a short walk, hauling our suitcases, over a couple of bridges to the hotel.

The Hotel Al Sole, booked months ago as the first stop on our trip, proved to be a brilliant choice. Built on the site of an ancient monastery, it is owned by the Marcello family since 1400, who was one of the 40 founding families of Venice. Opening the shutters of our small, but well appointed room, I felt as if I was playing my part in the ongoing pageant that makes Venice so vibrant. On the first floor up, it overlooks a bridge on the bend of a canal. There was an endless passing parade of people and boat traffic. I leaned right out the window where I could look people in the eye and cordially greet passers-by with a smile.

In no time we were out joining the throngs of tourists to do our first sightseeing, starting with the Rialto Bridge. We didn’t stop, except for dinner, until the wee hours. I am embarrassed to say, we took about an hour’s detour when we made one wrong turn, went right by the cruise ship docks. The short, but eventful day included a slow trip by vaporetta on the Grand Canal.

Day Two: More walking, more vaporetta rides, gelato and gelato again. We visited many churches to see the paintings and art work. My favourite was the Frari Church with several Titians and intricate inlaid wood in the choir. A ride out to the glass blowing island of Murano was somewhat disappointing when we were not able to find anyone at the factories demonstrating glass blowing. But there were tons of stores showing fancy glassware. The large glass sculptures in the squares are very impressive. On the way back to Venice, we stopped off at the site of the Biennale, but being Monday, it was closed. Never mind, we wouldn’t have done it justice in the short time we were there.

All in all, Venice is pretty stunning, with its intricate waterways, grand palazzos and maze of alleys. We loved seeing the regular folk who live there going about their daily business. We particularly enjoyed watching the working boats – delivery, garbage, fire, police, ambulance, construction boats. The vaporetti, gondolas, taxis and pleasure boats all vied for spots along the canals. It was particularly amazing to watch the gondoliers navigate tight corners, amongst heavy traffic.

Peter was quick to notice the two different networks of movement through the city, by boat and by foot, that criss-cross each other, occasionally parallel, that allow you to experience Venice in two completely different ways. This is mimicked in the way that the residents and tourists by-pass and intersect, to make this an incredible living museum.

Anticipation....

Over the past many months while booking and researching places to go and things to see, I have attempted to learn to speak Italian. The TPL has a great supply of language CD's and I tried pretty much everything they had to offer in the way of Italian learning CD's. As it turns out, despite the claims on each product, there IS NO EASY WAY to learn a new language. At least I know how to ask for "due birre per favore"

I used to have a saying "have passport, tickets, contact lenses and credit card, will travel" but now the list included computer, GPS, I-Phone, and a whole slew of adapters and chargers. But the good old guide books and paper maps are still my standby.

Our Italian itinerary

This is the route we are following:
Fly to Venice. After two nights in Venice - pick up our tiny rental car and a long day's drive to Riomaggiore, first stop in the Cinque Terre. Hopefully we will have some time for these towns, Verona, Padova, Parma and more. Two nights in Riomaggiore give us time to walk the trail between five coastal cliff towns. Then on to Firenze. Next stop Siena. Somewhere in there we will take at least a brief look at Pisa. From Siena we take a longish haul to Rome with our first night in Ostia in order to visit Ostia Antica. Then we drop the car at the airport and the rest will be by train and foot. Three final nights in Rome - hardly enough time to see the main sites. And then home again. Already it feels too short.

Planning the next trip

Just in the planning mode for our trip to Italy in September. When I get time, I'll add memories of past adventures.
Ciao