Thursday, May 10, 2012

View from the Pillion - Destination Jaca

We are woken to the sound of crowing cocks and tweeting birds. I can't leave the Parador Seu D'Urgell without mentioning breakfast. Frankly, it's outrageous. The array of choices is vast and sumptuous. I can't decide what to choose, so I eat waaay too much.


Another sunny day; also warmer than expected. Our bags are stuffed so tight I have to wrestle mine closed each morning  Packing is a fine art and I am quite amazed how much we have managed to bring along with us. Apart from rain gear and warm liners for our riding gear, we have a whole array of electronics. Along with a netbook computer, we have chargers and cables for our Sena headsets, the GoPro, camera, phones, razor, as well as adapters so we can plug and charge overnight. Each day we download our photos and the GoPro videos onto the computer. And Peter loads up the maps for the day onto the GPS. Somewhere in amongst the gear we have enough change of clothes so that we look respectable at the nice hotels I have chosen to stay in.
More hairpins, twisties & tunnels on the the N-260 through the Pyrenees!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uofwwVage0

Our first stop is the town of Sort - but only a short stop to take some photos and a pee break.Then we continue on through more valleys and mountain roads. The terrain changes quickly as we blow through villages built on cliff edges and houses edging into the roads; past lush fields, ice-blue mountain streams and rocky cliffs. Some of the roads are narow and as we climb higher, there are many rock cuts, rocky outcrops and steep drops to the valleys that criss cross our route. We go through many tunnels. Sometimes they are well lit, others are dark, long and curve through the mountains. They're a bit spooky and from my back seat view, it's like entering a dark void where I see nothing but the flicker of our headlights on the narrow encroaching walls. But we always pop out into bright sunshine again. The jagged mountains loom over some of them have snow on the peaks, but the temperature continues to rise. After lunch, I have to strip down to a tank top under my jacket.
We eat at the first restaurant we see on the road through some little town (whose name I have forgotten) that we ride into at the right time. The outstanding feature of the town is a strange barrel shaped church. The"menu" of the day is posted on a board but no English is spoken here, so we make a guess and choose well. The food is delicious and Peter's rellenos are a big winner. 

Onwards to Jaca. A fast run down a narrow valley, plus great rock formations and tunnels through a narrow crevasse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6RMi7Be_74

The distance seems shorter today - or perhaps I am just getting used to spending a good part of the day on the back of our trusty BMW. I have become very fond of the bike and have named it "Hey Jude." It gets full marks from my perspective as a passenger. The seat is well padded, almost feels like memory foam. The handles are in a good spot and the pegs low enough so my legs don't cramp. The backrest shape of the top box is a really good touch for long days on the pillion. I fit snugly into the passenger space and the bike feels sturdy under me. Side bags and top box are generous in volume. I know Peter is enjoying the way it handles and for me, it seems smooth and stable. For a heavy beast, it is nimble in the corners and feels good at speed. Even on the highways, I don't feel buffetted when we pass trucks. While Peter would like a little more power, it still has enough in reserve to pass most vehicles, even on the mountain roads. Some of the credit must go to Peter of course, whose only real beef is a tricky down shift into first gear on the fly.
More fast twisties and great scenery, finishing the day in Jaca. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UUsaXprVi8
Jaca is a decent sized town in a valley surrounded by the Pyrenee Mountains. It's a popular hub for all kinds of outdoor adventures including skiing in the winter. A big attraction for tourists is the sprawling pentagonal fort, complete with deer in the grassy moat; built in the 1500's to defend against the French. Ironically the only battle fought here was when the French were in possession. How exactly that happened, wasn't made clear.The remnants of the original church still stand guard at the entrance.


We are the last and only customers at the tail end of the day. The guide speaks passable, not fluent English but she's extremely good-humoured and finds Peter's teasing jokes to be very funny; even when he aims an antique musket at her in the museum.
The big decision of the day is where to eat, so we take a long stroll to reconoitre until we settle on an outdoor restaurant in a busy square. A charming waitress tries valiantly to explain the menu options in broken-English and enlists the help of other customers. There are quite a number of busy eating establishments as well as late night shops open and no shortage of customers. It strikes us again that its hard to find evidence of the terrible economic crisis that the country is going through.

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I hope you enjoy reading about our adventures. Feedback and comments are very welcome.