Introduction to Cappadocia

Today is a travel day so we're up early to catch our flight to the Cappadocia region. It's only when we are travelling that we see the sunrise! Our published itinerary was to fly to Ankara followed by a 4-hour bus ride to our destination, so we are all very pleased to find the route has been changed. Instead we are flying to Kayseri which saves hours on the bus and gives us time for a good tour of some remarkable sites. First we transfer to the airport which is on the Asian side of Istanbul about an hour's drive from the hotel. Murat proves to be remarkably efficient at herding us through airport check-in, taking care of our tickets and baggage, so it is effortless for the rest of us.

The flight is smooth above the clouds. The mountain that looms above the cloud layer is snow-covered and I wonder about my limited cold weather clothing choices. At Kayseri airport we are met by Sudik, who will be our driver for the rest of our tour. From the moment we hit the road, our day is packed with new experiences.

Cappadocia is a region notable for its remarkable topography where the Flintstones would feel quite at home. Over millions of years earthquakes, erosion and weather have shaped the land into a series of extraordinary formations. Humans have added to the unique landscape by sculpting citadels, homes and churches into the rock. Although it looks arid, the land is extremely fertile and crops are grown in valleys and odd pockets between the rock outcroppings. We take the scenic route and stop to get views of the valleys and mountains in the distance. At each viewpoint, there is a small market offering touristy crafts and samplings of dried nuts and fruit; particularly apricots which are labeled Turkish Viagra.

 We particularly enjoy the view of Pigeon Valley where we will hike the next day. Pigeons are valued for their droppings, which are collected from specially cut dovecotes and used as fertilizer.

After a tasty lunch, we stop at the Hotel Sofa to drop our bags and freshen up. The hotel, in the small town of Avanos, is a delightful surprise. Each of the rooms is unique, set on different levels around an open courtyard. Some of the rooms are cosy spaces carved into rock caves. Ours is spacious and elegantly furnished, with a sitting area overlooking the courtyard and a large upscale bathroom. There are many thoughtful extras, including slippers waiting for us at the entrance. We emerge from our assigned rooms with broad grins and decide to have a "room tour" later.

The day still has plenty of surprises. We're a happy group of photo-snapping travelers as we continue our explorations. Murat has already established himself as an excellent and knowledgeable guide. He has offered us an option of a visit to watch a demonstration by Whirling Dervishes. We saw a whirling dervish in Egypt who performed for entertainment, but here it is a serious religious Muslim sect founded by Mevlana Rumi. They whirl to the sound of a special drum rhythm, with very specific postures and gestures, as a form of meditation and prayer. It is a sombre affair. No photos are allowed during the sacred ceremony, but later they return for photos and one of the Dervishes emerges to talk to us about the practice. All in all, it is a very moving and educational experience.

We still have time for a pottery stop. Tucked into a series of caves, the family owned pottery shop houses a dazzling array of colourful ceramics. We watch a skillful demonstration as blobs of clay are transformed in minutes into platters and intricate containers. Each of the pieces is decorated free-hand . Prices vary according to the stature of the artists, their experience and skill. Fearing we might end up with broken pieces of pottery by the end of our journey, we limit ourselves to a couple of simple bowls to take back as gifts. 

The day is not over and our final treat is a dinner in a family home. An extension of tables with cushions on the ground for seating fills one room of the house. The family who welcomes us warmly, speaks no English, so Murat acts as interpreter as the different dishes are presented to us. Mezes, salads, bread and a specialty bean dish, cooked in a fire pit sunk in the ground leave us sated. After a period of adjusting our North American knees to the sitting position, we find it to be a perfect setting to lounge and talk. In a short period of time we have become comfortable with each other and have gelled as a compatible group.