Tuesday, October 15, 2013

The Road to Pamukkule - Hierapolis

The drive to Pamukkule is about three hours, through varying terrain and scenery. Urban sprawl gives way to small farms and occasional villages. When I wake up from a short doze, we are climbing a steep mountain road - as Peter describes it, a good riding road, with lots of curves and twisties. The views down into the valley with a twinkle of water from a distant bay, are lovely. I think this is the last we will see of the Med on this trip.
Today is the start of the four-day Sacrifice Feast holiday. Stalls are set up along the route for people to buy a fake animal in lieu of sacrificing a real one.
Just a quick stop for a tea and pee break at a comfortable rest stop; where strings of peppers, aubergine and okra hung out to dry, make a lovely display.

Lunch is on the airy upper level of homey restaurant. So simple and delicious. Gotta love this Turkish food.

The Hotel Tripolis, where we are staying for the night is large, sprawling and modern with three outdoor pools and one indoors, a spa, hamam and view of the white travertine cliffs.

It is quite late in the afternoon when we head to the World Heritage Site of Hierapolis-Pamukkale. I had never heard of it before reading about it in the G-Adventures itinerary, so I am quite unprepared for the fascinating ancient site we're about to explore.
The graves and stonework of the sprawling necropolis with around 12,000 tombs of different styles and eras, has been tossed about by earthquakes that rocked the area in the 1st Century AD.

Walking around the ruined site, is a sobering experience. So MANY empty tombs. Who emptied them? Where are the remains?
The Roman Theatre is in relatively good repair. 
We get our first view of shimmering white travertine, which looks like snow on the hillside.
The chalky crystaline deposits are caused by mineral-rich volcanic spring water that has cascaded down the hillside, over terraces and natural basins for eons. 
It is too late to swim in the Sacred Pool, where it is said that Cleopatra bathed. Pillars from a temple to Apollo have crashed into the clear water. The cost of 32TL is pretty steep for a quick dip among the ruins.
The sun is starting to set as we start our walk down from the site. We take off our shoes and tread carefully on the bright white travertine. It has a rough texture underfoot, like sandpaper, and sharp in spots. This is no place for tender tootsies. We walk past some of the deep pools, and the trickling water that flows constantly, sometimes deepens, so that Stephanie and I help each other by holding hands. 

Bathed in the glow of the setting sun, with the moon high above, this is truly a magical experience which I will never forget.

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I hope you enjoy reading about our adventures. Feedback and comments are very welcome.