View from the pillion - on the way to Lošinj Island, Croatia

We're ready to leave the luxury of our castle room to be on the road by 8 am. It is no easy feat making a selection from the elegant breakfast spread in the dining room. I am trying to be sensible since we have such amazing food options every day and I'm afraid my riding pants won't do up before the end of the trip.

Once over the wooden moat bridge we set off at a brisk pace heading once again through verdant landscape. The weather is perfect and the roads are smooth and curvy. At one point Peter decides to pass the pack and he tucks in behind Dejan. There is a long length of road, where they pick up the pace and we are flying along at high revs. Dan rides so well; he is awesome to watch. Peter does well keeping him in sight as they sweep around corners and fly along the straights (which are few). It is exhilarating! 

The day continues in this way and we cross the border into Croatia, where we go through border control and have to produce our passports. Then we have to find an ATM so that we have Croatian money. Euros are not accepted in Croatia.

Now we have to race at full throttle, past long lines of cars, across a toll bridge onto Krk Island  to catch the ferry. It is touch and go; the ferry is already loaded, but Primož has got there ahead of us with the van. He has our tickets and has managed to stall the departure with some kind of sweet-talking ruse. We hurriedly ride on board and stow the bikes. It is a pleasant 25 minute trip to Cres Island.

On Cres Island, Dan leads us up a narrow, rugged road to the tiny village of Lubernice which has perched on this rocky outcrop high above the sea for the past 4,000 years. Its current population is reduced to about 60 people. But, because of its scenic location, it's a popular spot for day-trippers and the locals are outnumbered by visitors who clamber around the rocks and enjoy local cuisine in this out of the way setting.

We're in luck, the specialty dish that takes half a day to cook, is available. Our server brings enough food to feed a small army. The hearty meal of lamb, gnocchi and potatoes is pretty good, but also very expensive and we spend most of our newly acquired Croatian kunas in one sitting. The server gets a huge "doggy bag" of left overs in lieu of tip. (Not that tips are expected or common in this part of the world. Peter and I, the Canadians in the group, are still wrestling with that concept)

It might be a rocky, windy outpost, but the views in every direction are spectacular.

The terrain is very different from the bucolic landscape we travelled earlier in the day. There are rocks everywhere including scattered on the road. Rock fences line the edges and form the basis of every built structure. We negotiate the return ride back to the main route to Lošinj Island and our destination, Vitality Hotel Punta in Veli Lošinj. En route Dan makes a point of showing us the way to Mali Lošinj which is the biggest settlement on the island, but once we pull up to our hotel, and see the infinity pool which seems to merge into the Adriatic Sea, we lose any motivation to venture too far from this inviting spot.

The location of the hotel at the edge of town, is excellent. Our room is lovely and we particularly appreciate the well-placed glass brick wall in the bathroom, making it feel spacious and bright. The hotel also thoughtfully provides plastic baskets, complete with beach towel for each guest to tote their stuff to the pool. And this is the first thing we do. We splash around in the glorious seawater pool and relax poolside until, wow, it's time to get ready for dinner already!

Dan and Primož take us on a short stroll through the village centre, which is ridiculously quaint, with colourful buildings edging the protected harbour.The main street is really a waterway; an inlet from the sea. Boats are tied up close together, practically encroaching on the town square and the pedestrian streets wind around the buildings and beside the water. Not too shabby a place to spend our day off.

Most of our dinners are included in the price of the tour and each evening we have a new experience in delicious eating. Tonight is no exception. I choose the sea bass; very simply prepared with julienne zucchini and truffles. And I try a grapefruit radler to drink which is pretty much a pre-mixed shandy. Very refreshing.