View from the Pillion - Ptuj to Otoceč Castle

There is a heavy mist in the valley rising into the hills when we wake up and by breakfast it is raining steadily. We put on our rain gear and prepare for a damp day on the road. But fortunately, the rain stops fairly soon and by contrast the rest of the day is dry and sunny with just a scattering of clouds.
This is the heart of wine country and in the first few kilometres while the rain is still falling, we climb a hill where the vista of vineyards is exquisite; contoured with the curve of the hills, stepping down the slopes in perfect rows. Soon we ride into the medieval city of Ptuj. At one time this was an important Roman settlement and now,2,000 years later, it is thriving again due to the re-emergence of the wine industry.

Our first stop is at an a very old wine cellar. The oldest cellared wines date back to 1917, but are not for sale. You can buy a pre-WW2 wine for around  €50,000!!! I don't think anyone has dusted since the bottles were laid down. 

The ladies enjoy a good tasting of three of the wines, while the guys have to be content with a few sips and some snacks, as we watch a video about the wines of the region.

Dejan guides us around the town, showing us the main points of interest including the main square, the City Hall, the river and narrow alleys and cobbled streets. He tells us an improbable story about the Castle owner and the Bell Tower - which I have forgotten, but was amusing at the time.

It's hard not to like this, the oldest town in Slovenia, with its  picturesque setting on the Drava River. It has survived ups and downs in fortunes since first habitation in the Stone Ages and early occupation by the Celts.  From the Romans onward it has suffered invasion, burning,occupation, war and re-emergence into a new era of culture and industry. Quirky public art and festivals play a big part in the town. And it has gay friendly signs in the city centre. We relax with coffee in the square before getting back on the bikes. Already our regular coffee breaks are becoming a popular part of our day's schedule.

The riding is glorious today and it's a pity that I don't have photos to go along with my memories of the gentle countryside. I become transfixed by the landscape rich with lush fields, the neat farms and trees with red, ripening apples that remind me of Christmas ornaments. 

The houses are painted in shades of yellow and ochre with window boxes overflowing with geraniums. The route is dotted with tiny chapels and tall crucifixes stand guard. I am in awe as the scenery seems to flow by me like a movie. It makes me want to write poetry.These words start to roll around in my mind "The blue sky, kissed by the sun, sprinkled with rain makes the perfect green - that is the colour of the hills and valleys of Slovenia." I reflect to myself that it's the kind of green that, when painted, can be strident, but in nature it is perfect.  I breathe in the country smells of manure, cut grass, chicken coops and fragrant forest smells.

After a brief stop to see the view of Podsreda Castle we have a late and leisurely lunch before we continue our ride through villages and valleys with a long leg parallel to the Sava River to end up at Otoceč Grad (Castle). This is to be our overnight stop. 

The castle, nicely situated on an island between two rushing rivers, is a Relais &Chateaux hotel. Well, no one said we would be slumming it on this tour.

Primož is there to greet us with our bags already waiting for us in our splendid rooms,

Tomorrow we head for Croatia.