Zagreb: in the Heart of Croatia

Despite a delayed Air Canada departure from Toronto we manage to scurry through Copenhagen airport just in time to board our connecting Croatian Airlines flight to Zagreb. Our luggage isn't as lucky. Another couple from Toronto is in the same predicament and since they speak Croatian, we tag along with them in search of the baggage claim department.Our claims dutifully filed and optimistic that the luggage will be delivered to us, we catch the express bus into the city. It is definitely a cheap (30 kuna for the bus and  6 kuna for the tram), efficient alternative to a taxi. At the bus station, the local Tourist Information office provides us with maps and clear directions about how to navigate the tram system and find our way through the pedestrian streets to our accommodation.

It's a nice introduction to the city, walking from the main square and navigating through the popular cafe-lined Tkalcicva Street to the Apartment Akademia. Check-in is very casually done in the cafe at the entrance to the building. Our host,  Doroteja is delightful, friendly and helpful, After showing us to our comfy apartment she goes out of her way, with a map, to point out places we might want to visit, She promises to keep her eyes open for our luggage, which won't arrive till the next day. Luckily we have two nights in Zagreb. We have chosen to stay mostly in apartments, which in Croatia is a great option to more formal hotels. Everything we might want to see is within easy walking distance. First it's time to join the cafe crowd and find something to eat.

Coffee culture is a way of life in Zagreb. We learn very quickly that most cafes only serve beverages. People sit under the umbrellas and canopies to enjoy the other main occupation; people watching. It's an art form here, on both sides of the activity. People dress up, parade and eventually settle on seats that face towards the street, where they become the audience for a while. We choose the History Cafe as it is one of the few places on this part of the street that serves food, and settle in to enjoy the passing parade. Then the rain comes. Heavy, pelting rain. The parade barely slows down. Umbrellas pop up and the servers rush to take cushions out of the downpour. The crowds thin, but only a bit. We have prime seats and stay dry under a large overhanging canopy, so we relax and wait. It seems that the kitchen is in another restaurant across the street. We watch as servers dash through the rain to cross the street where they pick up the orders, balancing food and umbrellas. 

The rain has settled into a gentle drizzle, but we have umbrellas and only a short time to see whatever sites Zagreb has to offer. The pedestrian street we're on was once a river which divided two towns. We take some steep stairs and enter the Old Town through the Stone Gate. It has a well visited shrine where people have left offerings and candles. There are plenty of interesting places in the Old City, but it's already getting dark and the only museum open is the very quirky Museum of Broken Relationships. Developed around the idea of giving closure to those who have suffered trauma through broken relationships, it is a mixture of odd, very personal stories and exhibits. We find it strangely fascinating. By the time we have read our way slowly through the exhibits, Peter's back is suffering from a severe case of "Museum fatigue." St Marks Church, dating from the 14th Century is the Parish Church of the Old City. With its eye catching, much-photographed tiled roof, it takes central place in St Marks Square. The tiles depict the coat of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia.

Heading back through the city, lively with people congregating in outdoor cafes and watching soccer and baseball on outdoor screens, the Bulldog Pub beckons. We are ushered to the restaurant downstairs in an old wine cellar where we have a delicious dinner. A good way to end our first day of our vacation. We go home to our cosy apartment, happily agreeing that Zagreb is our kind of town.